Sate Le Hate

[Karpool Kile]

Overheard a famous vetern of the Squamish climbing community who was responsible for putting up alot of the hard routes on the Kac boulder in Squamish and up in Check complaining about the amount of chipping on Sate Le Hate, quote "not sure if I like the route considering all the chipping" and a great little song that went "chippy chippy chippy". Which made me think of 2 questions.

1. How much chipping took place on Sate?
and
2. Hasn't this famous (rep for La Sportiva) climber been guilty of chipping in the passed?

Anyone have answers to these 2 questions?

[Peter]

I heard Pulse and DB just had the holds reinforced with glue, I guess I'll have to start working them to find out.

I think it's fairly well known that Permanent Waves and Natural Reflex were chipped though.

[sled neck]

it's been a number of years since Pulse, DB and the climbs at Kacademon were put up. Perhaps chipping has become less "acceptable" (even by chippers) especially when the grades are no longer cutting edge.

[sled neck]

I think you're probably right, if Pulse went up tomorrow not many would complain- 5.14 is still cutting edge espeically in Canada. But as limits get pushed and more people are climbing 5.12's & 13's regularly the acceptability of chipping at those grades diminishes. How many would think a chipped 5.8 is ok?

[sled neck]

I totally hear what you're saying and every time I a clip a bolt in Squamish I'm putting my trust in these individuals and other like them 100%. It does make me wonder though, when a respected & trusted climber and route developer comments on the amount of chipping on a particular route - that maybe those comments are justified. Not picking just speculating on what the "line" might be and when it's been crossed.

Then again like you say, who really cares, when you consider that a number of Squamish's classic natural/gear routes were once heavily nailed and now those pins scars are what make the route's perfect finger locks so classic.

[Karpool Kile]

I did not intend to disrespect the effort, time and money that was put in by the meingh posse. What ticked me off was the remarks made by local famous climber who has been guilty of chipping/glueing himself. It was a very busy day on Monday at the new wall and his remarks would of been heard by more then a few people. I just found it was a bit of a double standard to say these things.

Marty, if I pissed you off sorry.

[mr. truth]

You guys are talking about Jim Sanford right?

Didn't he put up that short route on the forgotten wall. Now he is bad mouthing the "new" bolter's. Sounds like he is worried about someone stealing his thunder.

[Peter]

I think you're probably right, if Pulse went up tomorrow not many would complain- 5.14 is still cutting edge espeically in Canada. But as limits get pushed and more people are climbing 5.12's & 13's regularly the acceptability of chipping at those grades diminishes. How many would think a chipped 5.8 is ok?

I'm not so sure about that, isn't there controversy over Realization and that other apparent 15a by the French guy b/c people are saying the French guy's route has chipped holds so it doesn't count. 15a is about as cutting edge as it gets (no pun intended). BTW-this is not a slam at "French guys". Merci.

Peter

[XXXX]

chipping dates an area like nothing else. look at williamson rock - nothing harder than 12c because thats as hard as the local activists could climb during the 2 year period they developed all the lines. potential 13s and 14s were chipped down to 12c complete with letterbox 4-finger slots. in the same way the kakodemon boulders are preserved for ever as a 90s climbing area. 20 years from now will people dis the forgotten wall as being "so 2004?"