Angel's Crest variations

[harihari]

Ok did it yesterday, here's the scoop (thanks to other people for the beta) I am just putting it all in one place

Direct start-- MUCH better than that idiotic tree-gulch thing. Go up lef past normal start (in gully) about 10 meters, look on right-- Barley bolts. 10b, bolts and gear, bring a few long slings.

3rd last pitch (the whaleback arete) variation. Go toward High Plains Drifter about 15 meters, climb a corner/crack, past trees. I used 1 #4 camalot but a few smaller hand-sized pieces woudl be fine. 10b.

final pitch variation-- AWESOME-- go left from the belay bolts to a short corner-layback past 1 pin, then into a leftward rising traverse past gear and 2 pins. A harder version of the Angel Crack (10c). This is quite clean. Gear to 3" and bring a couple of blue TCUs/Aliens/.3 camalots. If you've got the juice left and you've done the original end of Angel's Crest, this is a GREAT ending.

the off-width: bring 2x #6 camalot and a big bro if you are paranoid. it is NOT 10b-- more like 5.8-- and the crux is the bottom 15 feet. This would be a GREAT candidate for a bolt or two, cos, honestly, who wants to haul 2x #6 and a big bro on A.C.? what do folks think?

[Aaron]

the off-width: bring 2x #6 camalot and a big bro if you are paranoid. it is NOT 10b-- more like 5.8-- and the crux is the bottom 15 feet. This would be a GREAT candidate for a bolt or two, cos, honestly, who wants to haul 2x #6 and a big bro on A.C.?

I do. Honestly.

[harihari]

the off-width: bring 2x #6 camalot and a big bro if you are paranoid. it is NOT 10b-- more like 5.8-- and the crux is the bottom 15 feet. This would be a GREAT candidate for a bolt or two, cos, honestly, who wants to haul 2x #6 and a big bro on A.C.?

I do. Honestly.

well then it will keep on ot being climbed...and dirty! Let's see what others say. No I won't bust out the drill w/o a whole lotta support.

[Joolie]

what? 15 feet of 5.8 climbing and you want to bolt it??
Now who's paranoid, and ridiculous?
sell the drill....

[harihari]

what? 15 feet of 5.8 climbing and you want to bolt it??
Now who's paranoid, and ridiculous?
sell the drill....

no the bottom part is a bit harder then it mellows out. but really how often does that thing get climbed? jules good luck in Pass, i go there next week

[Lurch]

I wouldnt bother carrying that stuff even if i did own it. I would climb it with a bolt otherwise i'll go the other way. If the rest of the route required big gear i would haul it.. It would be nice to have more options to reduce traffic.

[Joolie]

I can guarantee that it has been climbed more times than the once that you've done it.

It's the same rack as for Pipeline, going propose to bolt that next? Man up carry the big gear, I know you can do it. In fact take it with you to WA pass and do the Boving Roofs - I'd like to hear how that goes

[hafilax]

I know that there is a bit of a precedent of bolting offwidths in multipitch climbs in Squamish but it is different when it is a variation vs. a required pitch. I think it should be left unbolted.