Good 5.10 & easy pro routes ?

[gregory_huey]

Hello,
In two weeks I'm making my first visit to Squamish - will be climbing for a week, doing mostly trad (but a bit of sport also - maybe for a day or so). I'd like some suggestions as to the best trad routes in the 5.10 range that are easy to protect. Crack is good, face is also good if it will take good pro (or has a bolt where it won't). Slab is ok, but not my strongest style. I'd like recommendations for both multi and single pitch.

Also, where is a good concentration of nice hard 11/easy 12 sport routes? (maybe a days worth of climbing?)

Thanks,
Greg

[pinner]

Hi Greg

head into Climb On when you get into town (on 2nd ave. downtown Squamish, across from the big Shopper's Drug Mart - downtown is small)
and pick yourself up a copy of Squamish Select. It will detail everything you are looking for.

also, search for old threads on this board, as this question has been asked many a time. if you're staying at the Chief campground, just ask your tent-pad neighbours what they've enjoyed so far. Happy climbing!

[mcgarnickle]

One of the best 5.10's is "The Great Game" on the squaw. It's 3 pitches, the first being 200' long and will eat up all the gear you can bring. A very good route with bolted belays and a walk off descent.

[Philipp]

Hi,
in case you like finger cracks, Exasperator at the Grand Wall base is pretty stellar. Takes lots of nuts and small cams (finger size obviously) and BD cams 1 and 0.75 (don't bother bringing more than three of those) on the last short bit of hand crack.