Marble Canyon

[rockandsnowjunkie]

Anyone have, or know where to find, topos and beta for climbs in Marble Canyon? I've done a fair amount of finger work and have a decent topo of climbs on the apron but would like to get a better understanding of the area and it's climbs. That said, 'yellow brick road' and a few others aside, climbs on the headwall are considered 'adventure' climbs with little set routes. I'm looking to rip up there in the next while and thought i'd try and track down more beta.

Thanks.

[smallman]

if you can find a copy of BC Central Rock (1995?) by Lyle Knight, photocopy or buy it as it is the only source of info available about Marble Canyon and Most of the cliffs in Northern BC. Marble has huge potential for sport and multipitch adventure climbs. The pro at Marble is way sketchier than the granite at Squamish. Be prepared to run it out, and very small offset nuts, cams and tricams are super useful. Helmets are essential as it is Rockies style limestone and the ledges are littered with scree that is easily dislodged by rap ropes, etc. Also Marble is south-facing and very hot. if it above 20 C there be prepared to cook or go swimming for the afternoon. Good luck. Go do Dream weaver it is classic.

[joeclimber]

I was looking for the Leo's book last year and called Elaho. They said a new book was coming out this spring. Nothing on their website yet. I have a copy if you want to have a look.

Joe

[rockandsnowjunkie]

Thanks to both of you. Had no idea a new edition was in the works, although i'd heard murmurings of more available info soon to come.

'Smallman', I assume that 'Dreamweaver' is in 'Central Rock'?

Thanks for the offer Joe, I'd love to check it out sometime before heading out. We should get out for a climb as an excuse.

Cheers!

I'll likely have a few more queries once i'm about to leave.

JP

[c-plus]

Several of the local libraries have the Lyle Knight book...

I climbed sissyfus (something like that, can't remember the exact spelling) a couple years ago and found it to be an entertainling climb with several unique pitches. but as stated above, the nature of the rock is quite different from squamish granite with blocky holds and many, somewhat insecure, little pockets.

is fun for a different challenge and makes good "shoulder season" climbing.

cheers

[lylek]

Thanks to both of you. Had no idea a new edition was in the works, although i'd heard murmurings of more available info soon to come.

Central BC Rock II is not in the works but Kevin M's "Canadian Rock" Select is expected in the near future and identifies a few Marble classics.

Lyle