Mank Patrol

[smallman]

Barley uses 3/8 inch Hilti bolts. I placed a nice rap hanger station at Funarama last week in holes he had drilled for Harry Young for a new route and which Harry has given me as a project. (BTW Harry Young and Robin did an awesome job retrocleaning this Cliff - thanks Harry and Robin). The grooves aren't an issue for affecting the strength of the bolt. I just put my rap hangers over top. For the washer chain set ups I would be leary of two things replacing anchors. One is the age of the bolts obviously. The second would be the length of bolt sticking out beyond the new hanger. The length of bolt sticking out from the rock is pretty long to accommodate the chain and washers. With any new hangers used for chains or fixe rap rings - the excess bolt sticking out could cause accidental unclipping of top rope anchors especially quickdraws if they flip around. As I know everyone sets up their own anchors for TR ing instead of threading through chains or rings ( yeah right!!) this could be a potential issue. If the hole is deeper than the bolt length you could hammer the bolt into the hole a little more to reduce the excess length. Using metolius rap hangers also reduces this length as they are thicker. If not you are kind of screwed unless you cut the end of the bolt off.

[hans]

The bolts on Supervalue are quite rusty.

Also, the 4th bolt (the last one) is not in the best spot. It's hard to clip from the stance if you are short, and it causes rope drag because it's too far to the right. It would be better about 2 or 3 feet left of where it is now.

[Peter]

one of the anchor bolts of mata hari as well as the anchor to face the music, plus lots of other bolts at the circus

[mocco]

The single rap bolt at the top of the Acrophobe's on AC may be a bit disconcerting to some, especially since there is a good inch of exposed threads at the top (how deep is that thing in there anyway?) and the 1/4 inch spinner piece of poo that backs it up with rat-a-tat-tat between the two is not really confidence inspiring. Not at all. I rapped on it yesterday. Have rapped on it several times. Personally I appreciate the "alpine nature" of the anchor, and the route. But c'mon, considering the number of people going up there, and that you can end up with up to 3 peeps on that thing at one time, shouldn't there be at least one good bolt? Just one...pleeeeeeez

[Optimally-Primed]

Some friends and I fixed the Acrophobes yesterday.

see this thread

The hard part was not the drilling... it was carrying the drill, hammer, chains, etc up all those 5.10 pitches below. What a work-out! We climbed as a 3 to spread the weight over the 2 seconders... all of us longed to lead.

-Jeremy

[smallman]

thanks jeremy.

[pinner]

The chains on A Little Testis at Up Among the Firs are very rusty, and have stained the rock quite a bit (they could use being moved forward a good 10 inches so they hang over the lip instead of stopping well short, but hey, at least they're there!)

[J Mace]

Anchors and bolts on Crules shoes are really rusty, the bolts are pure rust the hangers are ok. The last pitch of cruel shoes looks to have newer bolts.

IF you head up bring some tat to replace the worn out stuff clogging the belay, I had no knife or extra tat.

from what I remember the anchor after the crux 11b pitch on Unfinished Symphony consisted of some dicey old bolts with spinning hangers.

Climbed this twice last year and dont remeber it being a problem, maybe cause there is gear near by? Such a good route I will have to go for another look.

I dont mind helping if someone has the gun

[Don]

Last time I climbed Turbocharger the anchor bolts were loose.

[rockstarlette]

Brunser Area at Murrin... there are no anchors for half of the climbs -- Fist, Handful, Up for Grabs, Flake Off... There are trees... but no anchors... maybe there is a reason for this?

Also, I am curious why there is no anchor on Pennylane... is this to keep people from TR'ing the route?... just curious... caught us off guard when we got to the top!

thx. and happy, sunny climbing

[smallman]

For Penny lane there was anchors up there once ( you can see the chopped bolts if you look around). But i think it was being monopolized and getting polished by TRs like Flying Circus and Cat crack. I like the fact it doesn't have anchors.

[c-plus]

probably to keep it "old skool". besides, being more than 30m long, i wonder how many people might have thrown down a top rope and rapped down only to find their ropes not reaching the bottom

[Cloudraker]

from what I remember the anchor after the crux 11b pitch on Unfinished Symphony consisted of some dicey old bolts with spinning hangers.

Climbed this twice last year and dont remeber it being a problem, maybe cause there is gear near by? Such a good route I will have to go for another look.

I dont mind helping if someone has the gun

Ya I could be wrong about the condition of these - might just be a Barley offset bolt/washer and chain set up.

[Optimally-Primed]

I climbed Unfinished Symphony 2 or 3 years ago and my recollection was that, on the final pitch (11b slab), had a few good bolts at the 5.11 bits, then run-out 5.9/10- slab with old rusty bolts. There was no gear in sight... just open slab and rust.

[Tyrone Brett]

Hi,

Thanks for the input everybody. There is obviously an appetite around this subject. We are working on an online database that records all this good beta and the information surrounding it. We'll house it at squamishaccess.ca for reference for folks who want to get involved. A similar list of climbers' trails, their status and work needed will also be posted. In terms of retro support we still need to work out the details of how that will look and work. Suffice it say, a list of improvements that are needed is a good start.
Stay tuned,
Tyrone Brett
Squamish Access Society