Search found 339 matches

by scrubber
Sat Aug 30, 2014 8:39 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish Buttress - Second Ascent (?)
Replies: 2
Views: 10023

Re: Squamish Buttress - Second Ascent (?)

We'll get some pictures up soon. It was a hilarious bush-thrashing adventure. We were so scratched up from the forest burrowing that we looked like we had tried to bathe to feral cats. Showering afterward was excruciating.

K
by scrubber
Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Apron Descent Hand Line Needs Replacement
Replies: 9
Views: 31877

Re: Apron Descent Hand Line Needs Replacement

The old route is definitely better, and safer when damp.

k
by scrubber
Sun Aug 24, 2014 8:58 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New route at Crag X
Replies: 6
Views: 24596

Re: New route at Crag X

The route now has its own bolted rap stations at the top, and half way down. This way you're not held captive if there's a party on triage arête. Belaying from above will be more comfortable from the large fir tree, however the new park policy prohibits fixed anchors from trees. Therefore I removed ...
by scrubber
Thu Aug 21, 2014 5:38 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Replies: 12
Views: 23797

Re: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning

I have spoken to the folks at Triton about the Hilti bolt and drill bit prices. Not only are we not buying the quantities to get a bit of a discount from them, but they aren't buying the mass numbers of those products from Hilti to get the really good prices. While we may not be able to get a compet...
by scrubber
Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:54 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Knacker Cracker start
Replies: 1
Views: 7404

Re: Knacker Cracker start

I was the one who pulled off the flake last fall. The start is a bit harder now, but the first decent pro still comes at the same spot. Any pro folks managed to get in behind that flexi-flake probably wasn't worth the effort it took to place it. The consequences of a fall in that low crux may indeed...
by scrubber
Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:43 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Any info on the Grand Finale 11a A0 5p?
Replies: 2
Views: 3720

Re: Any info on the Grand Finale 11a A0 5p?

If you type "grand finale" into the search bar, you can find this post about the first ascent : http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... ale#p18810
Kris
by scrubber
Thu Jun 26, 2014 5:27 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New route at Crag X
Replies: 6
Views: 24596

New route at Crag X

Although many of you have likely seen my ratty Rope hanging from the top of Crag X for the last year, the route has finally been finished. Left of triage arête, this long corner leads to a fixed rap station from the large fir tree at the top. The route is 40m long, so be prepared to belay from the t...
by scrubber
Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:44 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Replies: 12
Views: 23797

Re: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning

The reason that MEC has stuck with the Hilti 3/8" bolt is simply because of it's high standard of quality, price, and that it just meets the UIAA strength standard for anchors. Going on the history that virtually no Hilti bolt failures under proper installation conditions and usage have occurred, ME...
by scrubber
Mon Sep 30, 2013 8:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Replies: 12
Views: 23797

Re: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning

Wow, that's unfortunate. Especially as they are a Hilti dealer. I have checked their prices on Hilti bits and bolts before, and they can't even meet the prices that MEC sells the Hilti ones for. They said they could if someone ordered the same quantity as MEC does! While I agree that those Simpson S...
by scrubber
Sun Sep 22, 2013 9:24 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Block on Banana Peel
Replies: 6
Views: 7487

Re: Block on Banana Peel

Took a close look at it a few days ago, and it doesn't appear to have shifted position at all. Sure would be fun to see it slide the whole way down the apron though.... The big block between Pineapple Peel and Slab Alley seems far more ominous. Thank goodness ten parties a day aren't clamoring all o...
by scrubber
Tue Aug 27, 2013 7:52 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Manslaughter charges filed in Tito's death
Replies: 10
Views: 13653

Re: Manslaughter charges filed in Tito's death

Thanks for that reference Toby. Much easier to see why things are unfolding how they are.

K
by scrubber
Mon Aug 26, 2013 7:37 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Manslaughter charges filed in Tito's death
Replies: 10
Views: 13653

Re: Manslaughter charges filed in Tito's death

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't "gross negligence" imply there was intent to harm? Negligence causing manslaughter would be more likely. As usual, anyone within arms reach of those draws during their manufacture, sale, and use will be named in the suit. The courts then have to decide if any of ...
by scrubber
Sun Aug 25, 2013 8:29 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 12 new Bolts left of the pillar
Replies: 9
Views: 11134

Re: 12 new Bolts left of the pillar

Thanks for clearing up the mystery, (and vindicating Ariosa) Marc and Jason.

K
by scrubber
Thu Aug 22, 2013 2:43 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 12 new Bolts left of the pillar
Replies: 9
Views: 11134

Re: 12 new Bolts left of the pillar

Hmmm... Almost a month later and there are still ropes hanging on the face. Ariosa isn't setting them selves up as good stewards of the chief leaving stuff up there through the busy season. Admittedly hypocritical of me, as I have fixed ropes up for other reasons for far longer periods of time... Kris
by scrubber
Thu Aug 22, 2013 2:38 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)
Replies: 156
Views: 194016

Re: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)

Well said. While I can sympathize with the developer not wanting a whole bunch of vehicles close to their top station, I'm sure a parking area near the habrich/ sky pilot spur could be realized (just like where we were parking 15 years ago) without impacting their psudo-mountain-wilderness experienc...