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Roger that.
Didn't feel like 11a to me either.

Above is a great post!
I agree 100%
Thank you Frank B!

I think that the pitch you climbed (leftmost line above pitch 1) is one of the newer variations to Bullethead East - it was recently scrubbed and is not in either guidebook. This pitch is graded 10b. The original Bullethead East 2nd pitch is further to the right and shares the same start as Rainy Da...

bump for Mushy Peas climbed it for the first time today and wow, some amazing pitches up there! pitches 3 through 6 are money. this route definitely deserves more attention... makes my Squamish top ten list for sure. it is currently 100% dry but the 1st and 2nd pitches are a bit dirty. we didn't bri...

or consider doing Granville Street instead. You will be able to see the second and talk him through the more difficult moves on pitch 1 and pitch 2 better if neccessary. Pitch 3 is barely 5th class. This also has the benefit of avoiding some scrambling immediately above the end of Boomstick which yo...

Thanks for the feedback t-bone. So far, from what I've heard, consensus has the grade at 10b. Glad you enjoyed it and stoked to hear that it's getting climbed! There are some technical moves and hidden holds - if you don't figure them out and just slab climb then the route will likely feel harder.

Jesse James,
How many routes have you developed in Squamish?

Climbed this 2 weeks ago and thought it was great!
Excellent trad climbing with nice belay ledges atop each pitch.
Thanks everybody for the hard work involved in cleaning this line!

I climbed this route a couple weeks ago - it is definitely worth checking out! The area is quiet and beautiful with great views of Tricouni, Cloudburst, Tantalus Range and even Howe Sound and The Chief. Well worth the easy hike (or drive 2km and cut the approach in half if you have a 4X4 and don't c...

I don't know who is scrubbing that route.

Hi Brownie, I started the initial cleaning on that line about 5 yrs ago... Finally got around to finishing it a couple months ago. It's called "Styrofoam Window" and it's 45m long. 5 bolts plus a few small cams. Alternate start to the left skips one bolt and uses a couple more cams from 0.5" to 0.75...

Ahhh, I ended up making other plans... perhaps another time?
Have a good climb on Saturday!

p.s. Bullethead East is dry - climbed it today

I've done it before and I'd be into doing it again - how about Sunday or Monday?

Next time I'm gonna wrap my hands & wrists with bicycle innertubes and tape before climbing split beaver.. and then tell everybody that I sent it!

Whose "sub-par mind" is openly complaining about tree removal at a climbing crag in Squamish? Do you enjoy climbing wet routes covered in hemlock needles with clumps of muddy grass on the holds and a coating of slimy rock moss on the slabs? Whithout continued vegetation management, many of our best ...