Search found 396 matches
- Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:13 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Heatwave cracks
- Replies: 6
- Views: 3721
Re: Heatwave cracks
The first time I climbed the Buttress there were something like 5 fixed pins on the crux. Now the last one is gone. Same with Neat and Cool. Used to have 4 fixed pins on the lower finger crack. I think every single one came out when someone fell on them, not all at once though. Kinda makes you think...
- Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:09 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Looking for pre Campbell Squamish Guides
- Replies: 3
- Views: 1898
Re: Looking for pre Campbell Squamish Guides
I've got guidebooks all the way back to Glenn's original.
Pretty sure the cliff you mention has never been written up before even if it does have old routes on it.
Pretty sure the cliff you mention has never been written up before even if it does have old routes on it.
- Wed Jun 27, 2012 8:08 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Recommended approach to Star Chek
- Replies: 9
- Views: 7119
Re: Recommended approach to Star Chek
If the water's high crossing that loose scree pile to the base without an ice axe is a quick way to die.
I've done both ways a bunch and the rap in is faster and much safer.
I've done both ways a bunch and the rap in is faster and much safer.
- Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:43 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Rambles (4p, 5.8)
- Replies: 58
- Views: 47720
Re: Rambles (4p, 5.8)
Crystal Burst starts right of Rambles, goes up to cross the start of Rambles p2 traverse crack, and finishes well out left in the trees. Mickey Mouse joins Rambles near the end of Rambles p2 and then moves left and up a bit to the fault. Brent Nixon's route Mighty Mouse climbs the hanging corner abo...
- Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:25 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: papoose unknown climb
- Replies: 4
- Views: 2984
Re: papoose unknown climb
Do you mean Mercury Vapour 10a or something right of that?
- Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:40 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Cypress Falls Bouldering Topo?
- Replies: 19
- Views: 12787
Re: Cypress Falls Bouldering Topo?
In the active quarry above the Godman Creek boulders, I climbed the blasted corner at the left of the main wall back in the early 90s (before they dumped all the blasted boulders in it). seem to recall it goes around 10-. The top anchor involves medium sized blue Tricams in drilled shot holes.
- Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:37 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Grand Finale open for business!
- Replies: 9
- Views: 6125
Re: Grand Finale open for business!
The first pitch or so has seen some previous attempts, yes? I seem to recall hearing that it got tried as long ago as the 80s - my old Campbell guide has it shown as 5.8 and I recall there was a rotted sling anchor left of the Dyke for a long, long time.
- Thu May 17, 2012 5:53 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Climbing Uncle Bens; Hammock Bivy Style
- Replies: 8
- Views: 4522
Re: Climbing Uncle Bens; Hammock Bivy Style
You should get yourself one of the Kong adjustable fifis. They help.
- Wed May 16, 2012 7:38 pm
- Forum: Vancouver to Hope
- Topic: Copper Cove mystery climbs
- Replies: 5
- Views: 19598
Re: Copper Cove mystery climbs
They are both 11- Barley routes. Arid Zawn and Drizzle Zawn respectively.
- Wed May 16, 2012 7:36 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: What is typical squamish climbing?
- Replies: 7
- Views: 3402
Re: What is typical squamish climbing?
Typical Squamish climbing is somewhat less than vertical non-splitter cracks and friction. You're gonna hate it.
- Sat May 12, 2012 7:36 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Crag/Trail Work Suggestions
- Replies: 10
- Views: 6208
Re: Crag/Trail Work Suggestions
It'd be nice for the trail down to Gotham City to get fixed up again through the canyon. Lots of neat climbs and a ton of untapped potential in there.
- Tue May 01, 2012 6:43 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!
- Replies: 7
- Views: 4566
Re: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!
I don't know how to contact Mark or have any more info. Pretty sure I saw the route written up in a Climb-On new book circa 1998? ahem, edit: actually it's in Kevin McLane's 2005 guidebook. "It is possible to hand traverse from low on Out To Lunge (5.8?) M. Bosomworth, D. Horne April 98" As for "I'm...
- Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:36 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!
- Replies: 7
- Views: 4566
Re: Smoke Bluffs Guidebook Questions - Help!
I know he's changed his name, but I can't remember what he changed it to - anyways, the guy who used to be named Mark Bosomworth was involved in that Easter Island traverse.
And isn't the bolted route right of Sudden Impact a Payan/Thomson 10b?
And isn't the bolted route right of Sudden Impact a Payan/Thomson 10b?
- Sun Apr 29, 2012 6:07 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park
- Replies: 9
- Views: 6407
Re: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park
OK, thanks Jeff.
Last time I was at Lost in Obscurity was around 10 yrs ago. At that time there were a bunch of projects on the go there with bolts and fixed ropes etc. but I never have seen them written up anywhere?
Last time I was at Lost in Obscurity was around 10 yrs ago. At that time there were a bunch of projects on the go there with bolts and fixed ropes etc. but I never have seen them written up anywhere?
- Fri Apr 27, 2012 4:13 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park
- Replies: 9
- Views: 6407
Re: New - Quercus Wall - Murrin Park
This sounds location wise like it is the old Lost in Obscurity crag. Is there a crack to a 5.9 slab "ending at the highest outcrop" (that you can see from the highway, after coming thru Dynamite Alley and rounding the bend heading north) at the south end of the cliff ?