Search found 86 matches
- Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:22 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: dry tool on cacademon
- Replies: 4
- Views: 5087
Re: dry tool on cacademon
Hi Calamity, A few years back I fixed up the route you mentioned plus the one to the left, replaced a few bolts, anchors, holds and installed a few ropes for winter dry tooling sessions. After using it during the winter and it seeing regular use by many I returned in the spring to clean everything a...
- Wed May 21, 2014 7:35 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New Route at Chek - Toxic Lichen Wall
- Replies: 1
- Views: 3748
New Route at Chek - Toxic Lichen Wall
New Route on Toxic Lichen Wall:
"Full House" 5.12a/b, 18m, 6 Bolts
Between "Mutation" and "Joe Dirt"
Thanks
Eric
"Full House" 5.12a/b, 18m, 6 Bolts
Between "Mutation" and "Joe Dirt"
Thanks
Eric
- Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:27 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Second Nature Direct -
- Replies: 0
- Views: 4154
Second Nature Direct -
I have added a direct start to "Second Nature" at Pet wall, 4 bolts to the left of "The Coffin/Project Grizzly" start. The bolts do not affect the traditional start of those routes. The direct is mid-5.11 to a hands free rest into "Second nature" so its does not affect the overall grade of 12d. I al...
- Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:14 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Mank Patrol
- Replies: 106
- Views: 723949
Re: Mank Patrol
Take "Second Nature" off the list, I retro bolted it today.
- Sat Mar 29, 2014 1:09 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Mank Patrol
- Replies: 106
- Views: 723949
Re: Mank Patrol
Anchor and bolts on "Second Nature" at Pet Wall.
Thanks
Eric
Thanks
Eric
- Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:04 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs
- Replies: 7
- Views: 12641
Re: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs
Hi Rolfr, I'm a little surprised by your comments. Many people have spoken to Robin about his methodology. Many of his practices are quite clearly listed in your link as bad. (Chain links on bolt heads, incorrect glue, incorrect spacing of u bolts etc) as well as general climbing etiquette including...
- Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:47 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
- Replies: 12
- Views: 23841
Re: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Hi Kris, I agree, the safety factors on the Strong tie is a multiple of 4, Hilti has reduction ratio of 0.65. and I agree with your reasons why, random quality, covering their asses etc This reduction of ratings makes finding a true comparison difficult, but the ASCA is right in that as brands chang...
- Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:50 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
- Replies: 12
- Views: 23841
Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Hi Guys, I recently ordered bolts at Triton in Squamish and specified, 3/8 by 3" SS wedge bolts but did not specify from which supplier. When I went to pick up the order they were manufactured by Simpson Strong Tie. I decided to check their strength rating before purchasing, the Triton staff told me...
- Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:30 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Cleaning routes by R.Barley
- Replies: 2
- Views: 6339
Cleaning routes by R.Barley
This is footage of a Barley 5.10 climbing route, recently cleaned and open to the public. The hold was chalky from people using it and without the hold the route becomes 5.11. The block was exactly the way I found it and directly above the belayer; I aided past and cleaned it from above with my bela...
- Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:18 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: The Lemon Smuggler - Chek
- Replies: 0
- Views: 4692
The Lemon Smuggler - Chek
New Route at Chek Canyon "The Lemon Smuggler"- 5.12d - Sport FA - Eric Hughes/Jamie Finlayson Fully bolted sport line between Sacrilege and Ill Communication on Toxic Lichen Wall Grade needs confirmation so please climb it and let me know. Nice 5.10 climbing into consecutive boulder problems and sta...
- Wed Aug 14, 2013 8:58 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: 35-40m Simu-climbing rope wanted
- Replies: 1
- Views: 2850
Re: 35-40m Simu-climbing rope wanted
I have a 60m 8.5mm mammut rope that i use for simul climbing, glacier stuff etc I cut it in half this year and the other side is in great condition, no falls. I know it's a little skinnier and shorter than you want but, thought I'd offer. Or I have an old lead line you can have (loads of falls) 9.5m...
- Sat Jul 06, 2013 3:04 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Sunset Strip horror show
- Replies: 52
- Views: 92064
Re: Sunset Strip horror show
Jesse, I did a quick lap of this route this morning to see what all the fuss is about. Firstly the name calling and insults are unnecessary. Secondly the technical issues you bring up.. 1) The bolt off the belay after pitch one can be clipped easily, step on the good hold, grab the two under clings,...
- Fri Apr 19, 2013 8:29 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Magical Dog/Goin' to California
- Replies: 2
- Views: 3095
- Thu Apr 04, 2013 2:30 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Top 10 Hard Cracks in Squamish
- Replies: 21
- Views: 17425
Re: Top 10 Hard Cracks in Squamish
There is a ton of hard cracks....start with these!!!
The North Star, Cobra, Adder, 69, Gunslinger, Zombie Roof, Teddy Bears Picnic, My little pony, Gravity Bong, Sugar Daddy (Not a crack but will make you sweat!), The Shadow, Lake of Fire etc....if you finish all these you should get free shoes!
The North Star, Cobra, Adder, 69, Gunslinger, Zombie Roof, Teddy Bears Picnic, My little pony, Gravity Bong, Sugar Daddy (Not a crack but will make you sweat!), The Shadow, Lake of Fire etc....if you finish all these you should get free shoes!
- Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:02 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Crap anchor.
- Replies: 5
- Views: 9937
Re: Crap anchor.
Hi Brownie,
Can you tell me which line this is, or a description to find it.
Thanks
Eric
Can you tell me which line this is, or a description to find it.
Thanks
Eric