SquamishClimbing.com

I think there's a difference between a slab route and a sport route. Is it still an onsight? Sure, in my book anyhow. If you argue that it's not an onsight if you stick clip the first bolt then it's surely not a redpoint either if you stick the first bolt. I also don't buy the "ego" argument. A good...

Climbing is nothing like chess. There are way too many gray areas. Such as: - Clipping one anchor or both? - Extending tough clips or anchors? - Is pink pointing dead? For a true onsight of "Pulse" (example) does someone have to climb it first in order to remove the fixed draws? - I've seen a friend...

I don't consider Local Boys a sport route, and I don't know anyone who has a stick long enough to clip the first bolt.

In my book, if it's a sport route (I guess stick-clipping on a gear route would be tough) stick clipping the first bolt (not second or third) is definitely a legit practice for redpointing or onsighting. Is it not common practice to stick the first bolt on "Silent Menace?" If so does that invalidate...

It is a personal thing but I for one wouldn't feel cool with it. Once I clip the first bolt I won't down climb to the ground. However, is this any different from downclimbing to a bomber rest mid-route? I guess the big differance would be that it's hard to drive home for a few days of rest from the ...

Onsight or redpoint. Works for both.
So, an onsight could last for days or weeks.

Friend came back from a trip to France and Spain recently. While there he saw some guys climb up to the second, third and even higher bolts (clipping them as they went) and then down climb to the ground without hanging on the rope. He asked what was up. Answer: After, as an example, clipping the fir...

Just came back from a three week sport climbing trip to Utah, (AF and Maple) and spent ten months on the road last year mostly sport climbing. Squamish seems to be stuck in a vortex of some sorts. Stick clips are the norm at every sport climbing area we went to. In some cases there were communal sti...

Panacea 12c at Pet is quite good.
Barraka (sp?) 12b at Pet is really good and probably closer to 12c. (just my opinion)

Sold.

http://www.rackattack.biz/product-pages ... blazer.asp

$395.00

"Beer and Loafing it in Levenworth" is worth doing for the name alone.

4th go, 6:30 p.m. last day! Awesome!

I'm back in!
I thought Rock Lobster was tough at 12b until I got better beta. It's probably fair for the grade.

I can't believe "Redneck Shootout" gets 2 to 3 stars! No offence but I think it's the worst route at The Forgotten Wall. Just my opinion though.

11b/c