Search found 77 matches

by marc_leclerc
Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:48 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cowboys and Indians
Replies: 4
Views: 11599

Re: Cowboys and Indians

brownie wrote:This winter a friend and I layed siege to Cowboys and Indians and after two spectacular outings in which we gained the first two pitches

cheers, brownie

I am going to tease you guys about this one. :mrgreen:
by marc_leclerc
Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:54 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Free Route in North Walls
Replies: 11
Views: 22955

Re: New Free Route in North Walls

Thanks guys, I'm just glad that I went back up to lead that one pitch. That 4th pitch was a bit over my head when I scoped the line, but I didn't want to take my ropes down and possibly see it get retrobolted. I didn't go up for a whole year, and when I did go back it seemed just fine to lead after ...
by marc_leclerc
Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:08 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Free Route in North Walls
Replies: 11
Views: 22955

New Free Route in North Walls

I finished freeing the first six pitches of Chris Geisler's epic aid line 'The Last Temptation of St Anthony' on the North Walls of the Chief. This is an incredibly beautiful line, one of the great lines of Squamish in my fully biased opinion. Pitch 4 is a contender for the one of the boldest leads ...
by marc_leclerc
Mon Sep 02, 2013 2:32 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Rock On Dry?
Replies: 2
Views: 3577

Re: Rock On Dry?

It rained quite hard. If it stays dry for 2 - 3 days I'll bet it would be dry except for the 10a bulge at the top, this makes it somewhat harder, but not outrageous. A week of sunny dry weather and it will be dry. As a general reference, the second pitch of U-Wall and the Golden Throat Charmer were ...
by marc_leclerc
Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:15 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish's stiffest routes...
Replies: 40
Views: 130040

Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...

All the 5.12 pitches I climbed in the Yosemite felt easier on the onsight than similarly graded lines in Squamish. I onisghted 7 of 8 5.12 pitches I tried down there including supposed 12d stemming on RP's on El Cap. My track record in Squam isn't as good, it's not as soft here as people often sugge...
by marc_leclerc
Sun Aug 25, 2013 8:04 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 12 new Bolts left of the pillar
Replies: 9
Views: 11165

Re: 12 new Bolts left of the pillar

The white static line isn't mine, although I did jug it to finish soloing Humpty Dumpty. I left it up so a friend could also finish aiding Humpty Dumpty. But due to being busy organizing his own wedding he hasn't found the time to get the rope back. If it's bothering people I'm happy to go get it, a...
by marc_leclerc
Wed Jul 31, 2013 2:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Rock On - climbers urinating at belay stn
Replies: 8
Views: 8312

Re: Rock On - climbers urinating at belay stn

I am appalled that someone would do such a thing. I would certainly piss my pants long before considering urinating on a 'top 100' and possibly rendering the next climber's experience a 'Top 99' due to the presence of a urine like fragrance at a belay station. What should we do? Perhaps a group coul...
by marc_leclerc
Mon Jul 22, 2013 2:05 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Fluffy Kitten Wall... C'mon People!!!!
Replies: 11
Views: 21255

Re: Fluffy Kitten Wall... C'mon People!!!!

Probably about 45 mins from the parking to the base with gear. The bridge is intact and super fun to cross, its essentially a slackline with handrails!
by marc_leclerc
Mon Jul 22, 2013 11:15 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Fluffy Kitten Wall... C'mon People!!!!
Replies: 11
Views: 21255

Re: Fluffy Kitten Wall... C'mon People!!!!

jonny2vests wrote:So this is north side of Habrich?
Yes! Page 532 of the Mclane guide. :)
by marc_leclerc
Mon Jul 22, 2013 10:35 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Fluffy Kitten Wall... C'mon People!!!!
Replies: 11
Views: 21255

Fluffy Kitten Wall... C'mon People!!!!

So yesterday I went for a fun alpine traverse type mission, most of it is of little relevance to this board, however I started the traverse by climbing 'The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers' on the Fluffy Kitten Wall. I decided this morning that I had to say something about this beautiful and seemingly...
by marc_leclerc
Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:04 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Route at the Bottom of Pet Wall
Replies: 2
Views: 2842

New Route at the Bottom of Pet Wall

Hey guys, I put up a new route at the lower end of Pet Wall maybe a month ago. Chris Small cleaned this line and left it as a project when he was developing that section of the wall. I lowered down the line to figure out the crux moves and a couple pieces of gear, then led it. The gear isn't too bad...
by marc_leclerc
Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:05 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Top 10 Hard Cracks in Squamish
Replies: 21
Views: 17425

Re: Top 10 Hard Cracks in Squamish

Nobody has tried to flash 'sixty-nine' yet that I am aware of. If you think you're up to the challenge I have the rack and beta for ya.
by marc_leclerc
Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:37 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Climb on Tantalus Wall
Replies: 1
Views: 2767

New Climb on Tantalus Wall

Finished a new route on the right side of the Tantalus Wall. This is the first free climb on this part of the wall and is almost entirely new other than sharing some of 'Cerberus's first pitch and climbing a short section of the aid line 'Wrist Twister'. Just for fun and excitement the route was est...
by marc_leclerc
Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:05 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Start to Cerberus
Replies: 3
Views: 6151

Re: New Start to Cerberus

No clue why this posted twice. If someone deleted one of these that would be great. Cheers!
by marc_leclerc
Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:47 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Start to Cerberus
Replies: 3
Views: 6151

New Start to Cerberus

Put up a new start to Cerberus on the Tantalus wall. It starts off the same ledge as the aid line 'Wrist Twister', approach up the Bullethead Gulley, fixed lines in place. The new start dries extremely fast and provides an alternative to the slow drying 'Milk Run' or Tantalus Crack. It is very high ...