Search found 77 matches
- Fri Jun 19, 2015 12:00 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Crowds during Mountain Festival
- Replies: 4
- Views: 9068
Re: Crowds during Mountain Festival
Hi flyinglikepan, while crowds will increase somewhat during the festival, this is normally limited to a select number of popular routes usually in the 5.11a and easier range. Be wary of routes given the label of "Top 100"' in the select guide, as the label tends to draw much attention, but not in e...
- Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:28 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: The Official 2015 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy Thread
- Replies: 4
- Views: 18441
Re: The Official 2015 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy Thread
Hi cganzert, I will be helping instruct Alpine Systems. The idea is basically to prepare the participants to efficiently utilize a variety of systems depending on the type of alpine terrain they intend to climb. This could include a number of different systems including hauling, ascending ropes, sim...
- Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:42 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
- Replies: 23
- Views: 77465
Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
I'm with Stewart, this kind of thing ought to be preserved for entertainment value and quotable quotes. And Jesse you can even do the grand from the ground by adding only ONE pitch from the sounds of it. You just need a 70m cord and a blue and yellow TCU, no biggie.
- Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:14 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
- Replies: 23
- Views: 77465
Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
damn, you sound manly. How many eggs do you eat for breakfast?!
I'm sure you simul climb the split pillar
I'm sure you simul climb the split pillar
- Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:07 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Dry-tooling at popular crags
- Replies: 5
- Views: 10193
Re: Dry-tooling at popular crags
Vey uncool, dry tooling is for the mountains, and for choss that has been dedicated to the craft. It is more damaging than nailing free climbs because the damage is not limited to the vicinity of the crack, but instead it leaves scratches everywhere. In fact the effects of dry tooling is so pronounc...
- Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:01 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Large rockfall, North Walls
- Replies: 12
- Views: 23495
Re: Large rockfall, North Walls
Slightly unrelated, but when Brette Harrington and I climbed the central pillar of Joffre, we were a pitch from the top when the biggest rockfall either of us have ever seen ripped down the Twisting Couloir. The whole mountain was shaking and the rockfall actually collapsed a large section of the gl...
- Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:08 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Massive rockfall on chief
- Replies: 2
- Views: 4630
Re: Massive rockfall on chief
The rock in that area seems to be characterized by stacked flakes on top of brownish decomposing 'ball bearing' type stone that would provide a good weak layer to allow something to peel. One of those rockfall prone zones that people should generally be aware of. There is always debris on the trail ...
- Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:29 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity
- Replies: 4
- Views: 6350
Re: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity
HIAB corner is a classic pitch, highly recommended! Really technical climbing on an exposed ramp, then the best topout on the cliff! We linked Pipeline into it for a full 50 meter mega pitch, there's a perfect step across into HIAB right where the real climbing on Pipeline ends. Hopefully HIAB sees ...
- Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:21 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Mank Patrol
- Replies: 106
- Views: 699157
Re: Mank Patrol
The first pitch of 'Genius Loci' could use some work. The first and last bolts are missing hangers and the studs are damaged and won't accept new nuts, making the pitch a bit uninviting. The studs are rusty and should all be replaced, with all the bolts in place the pitch is not too runout, and it's...
- Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:04 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards
- Replies: 16
- Views: 35354
Re: Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards
For hard new single pitch lines I'd like to nominate Jeremy Smith's 'The Bull', as it is a good example of the cutting edge of Squamish trad climbing, with 5.14 climbing in an R/X rated position. His effort was admirable as well considering the time he put into the route including recovering from an...
- Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:58 pm
- Forum: Alpine
- Topic: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich
- Replies: 17
- Views: 60365
Re: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich
Hey Geoffgeorges, I hike up to the top of the gondola somewhat frequently via the Sea to Summit trail and it is a nice easy way to get up there. There is a lot of easy flat-ish walking with a few steeper uphill sections, but overall pretty mellow. Give yourself a couple hours with a pack full of cli...
- Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:34 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New route at Ferys Wheel cliff
- Replies: 0
- Views: 2091
New route at Ferys Wheel cliff
Today my lady friend, Brette Harrington finished a line she had been scrubbing in Gonzales creek for a while. The new route is about 10 or 15 meters left of The Perfect Wife and would be pretty hard to miss. Vanguardia, 5.12c - Climb a moderate shallow corner and overlap features then move into more...
- Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:19 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New route "Barbarian" on the barbarian wall
- Replies: 8
- Views: 12995
Re: New route "Barbarian" on the barbarian wall
It was pretty awesome to climb this route yesterday, even if it was on top rope while Luke was sending. This is one of the best hard routes I've seen anywhere. Just the 20ft arête fin leading to the roof is like the famous arête on Amandla at index, but then there's over 6 pitches of equally classic...
- Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:56 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Deadend Dihedral Retro Cleaned
- Replies: 3
- Views: 7826
Deadend Dihedral Retro Cleaned
I had wanted to climb Deadend Dihedral ever since I first saw a photo of the first pitch featured in a magazine when I was 15 but had never gotten around to actually trying the thing until this year. My girlfriend and I walked up to the base only to find grass and moss plugging up the thin seam so w...
- Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:24 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Liquid Gold
- Replies: 10
- Views: 11176
Re: Liquid Gold
I know that Boyd was on the FFA. Classic line. The last pitch gets 11a in squamish select but i think its mid range 5.10, requiring jamming of all sizes, maybe rope drag and placing gear makes it harder? I'm unsure as I've only climbed it alone.