Search found 77 matches

by marc_leclerc
Fri Jun 19, 2015 12:00 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Crowds during Mountain Festival
Replies: 4
Views: 9068

Re: Crowds during Mountain Festival

Hi flyinglikepan, while crowds will increase somewhat during the festival, this is normally limited to a select number of popular routes usually in the 5.11a and easier range. Be wary of routes given the label of "Top 100"' in the select guide, as the label tends to draw much attention, but not in e...
by marc_leclerc
Wed Jun 17, 2015 11:28 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Official 2015 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy Thread
Replies: 4
Views: 18441

Re: The Official 2015 Arc’teryx Climbing Academy Thread

Hi cganzert, I will be helping instruct Alpine Systems. The idea is basically to prepare the participants to efficiently utilize a variety of systems depending on the type of alpine terrain they intend to climb. This could include a number of different systems including hauling, ascending ropes, sim...
by marc_leclerc
Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:42 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
Replies: 23
Views: 77465

Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers

I'm with Stewart, this kind of thing ought to be preserved for entertainment value and quotable quotes. And Jesse you can even do the grand from the ground by adding only ONE pitch from the sounds of it. You just need a 70m cord and a blue and yellow TCU, no biggie.
by marc_leclerc
Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:14 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
Replies: 23
Views: 77465

Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers

damn, you sound manly. How many eggs do you eat for breakfast?!

I'm sure you simul climb the split pillar :roll:
by marc_leclerc
Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:07 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Dry-tooling at popular crags
Replies: 5
Views: 10193

Re: Dry-tooling at popular crags

Vey uncool, dry tooling is for the mountains, and for choss that has been dedicated to the craft. It is more damaging than nailing free climbs because the damage is not limited to the vicinity of the crack, but instead it leaves scratches everywhere. In fact the effects of dry tooling is so pronounc...
by marc_leclerc
Sat Apr 25, 2015 1:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Large rockfall, North Walls
Replies: 12
Views: 23495

Re: Large rockfall, North Walls

Slightly unrelated, but when Brette Harrington and I climbed the central pillar of Joffre, we were a pitch from the top when the biggest rockfall either of us have ever seen ripped down the Twisting Couloir. The whole mountain was shaking and the rockfall actually collapsed a large section of the gl...
by marc_leclerc
Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Massive rockfall on chief
Replies: 2
Views: 4630

Re: Massive rockfall on chief

The rock in that area seems to be characterized by stacked flakes on top of brownish decomposing 'ball bearing' type stone that would provide a good weak layer to allow something to peel. One of those rockfall prone zones that people should generally be aware of. There is always debris on the trail ...
by marc_leclerc
Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:29 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity
Replies: 4
Views: 6350

Re: New final pitch to frayed ends of sanity

HIAB corner is a classic pitch, highly recommended! Really technical climbing on an exposed ramp, then the best topout on the cliff! We linked Pipeline into it for a full 50 meter mega pitch, there's a perfect step across into HIAB right where the real climbing on Pipeline ends. Hopefully HIAB sees ...
by marc_leclerc
Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:21 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mank Patrol
Replies: 106
Views: 699157

Re: Mank Patrol

The first pitch of 'Genius Loci' could use some work. The first and last bolts are missing hangers and the studs are damaged and won't accept new nuts, making the pitch a bit uninviting. The studs are rusty and should all be replaced, with all the bolts in place the pitch is not too runout, and it's...
by marc_leclerc
Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:04 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards
Replies: 16
Views: 35354

Re: Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards

For hard new single pitch lines I'd like to nominate Jeremy Smith's 'The Bull', as it is a good example of the cutting edge of Squamish trad climbing, with 5.14 climbing in an R/X rated position. His effort was admirable as well considering the time he put into the route including recovering from an...
by marc_leclerc
Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:58 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich
Replies: 17
Views: 60365

Re: Escape Velocity, 5.9, Mt. Habrich

Hey Geoffgeorges, I hike up to the top of the gondola somewhat frequently via the Sea to Summit trail and it is a nice easy way to get up there. There is a lot of easy flat-ish walking with a few steeper uphill sections, but overall pretty mellow. Give yourself a couple hours with a pack full of cli...
by marc_leclerc
Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:34 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New route at Ferys Wheel cliff
Replies: 0
Views: 2091

New route at Ferys Wheel cliff

Today my lady friend, Brette Harrington finished a line she had been scrubbing in Gonzales creek for a while. The new route is about 10 or 15 meters left of The Perfect Wife and would be pretty hard to miss. Vanguardia, 5.12c - Climb a moderate shallow corner and overlap features then move into more...
by marc_leclerc
Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:19 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New route "Barbarian" on the barbarian wall
Replies: 8
Views: 12995

Re: New route "Barbarian" on the barbarian wall

It was pretty awesome to climb this route yesterday, even if it was on top rope while Luke was sending. This is one of the best hard routes I've seen anywhere. Just the 20ft arête fin leading to the roof is like the famous arête on Amandla at index, but then there's over 6 pitches of equally classic...
by marc_leclerc
Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:56 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Deadend Dihedral Retro Cleaned
Replies: 3
Views: 7826

Deadend Dihedral Retro Cleaned

I had wanted to climb Deadend Dihedral ever since I first saw a photo of the first pitch featured in a magazine when I was 15 but had never gotten around to actually trying the thing until this year. My girlfriend and I walked up to the base only to find grass and moss plugging up the thin seam so w...
by marc_leclerc
Sat Jun 28, 2014 12:24 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Liquid Gold
Replies: 10
Views: 11176

Re: Liquid Gold

I know that Boyd was on the FFA. Classic line. The last pitch gets 11a in squamish select but i think its mid range 5.10, requiring jamming of all sizes, maybe rope drag and placing gear makes it harder? I'm unsure as I've only climbed it alone.