Search found 76 matches

by BlahMatt
Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:17 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New start to Calculus Crack
Replies: 40
Views: 38169

Re: New start to Calculus Crack

I did the new start again a couple weeks ago. Super clean and still super fun! Great to link with a bit of simuling (60m rope) as long as you are careful with rope management to minimize drag.
by BlahMatt
Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:26 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Exasperator a bit dirty...
Replies: 15
Views: 14156

Re: Exasperator a bit dirty...

I really don't think you can rap to the ground where it is with a 70. I rap to the ground with an 80 and just make it to the ground. I would vote 'no' for moving the anchors as the route past that point isn't very exciting anyway :P. And I like that the anchors are directly above the other set. Plus...
by BlahMatt
Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:32 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Slhany (sic?) - right wing
Replies: 16
Views: 14740

Re: Slhany (sic?) - right wing

Did it as one pitch my second time up the route.. Was brutal but, there are a couple sort of rests you can manage if you know where they are. Placing gear is a major pain!

Stellar pitch though.
by BlahMatt
Mon Sep 17, 2012 8:27 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Exasperator a bit dirty...
Replies: 15
Views: 14156

Re: Exasperator a bit dirty...

Reclimbed it yesterday (after reading this post). Happily used the block to sit on for putting on my shoes :). Route still climbs pretty much the same with a slightly easier finish to the first "pitch". Anchor is in a fine spot as you pretty much just mantle up onto the ledge the block was sitting o...
by BlahMatt
Fri Sep 14, 2012 8:54 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Exasperator a bit dirty...
Replies: 15
Views: 14156

Re: Exasperator a bit dirty...

Wow! I climbed it earlier this week and didn't notice anything loose. I sort of gunned through it very quickly so maybe that's why but, yikes! Glad everything worked out and you were able to clean it safely.
by BlahMatt
Thu Sep 13, 2012 12:49 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style
Replies: 32
Views: 51953

Re: Favourite pitch in Squamish - any grade - any style

Right. So no tick for me then. Hi J2V: Since you've already done the last pitch of Mere Mortals, I'd encourage you to give the final pitch of Sunblessed a go using this alternative technique. I actually enjoy it when I do. Let us know if you do. Steve I'll second this. I enjoyed the last pitch of s...
by BlahMatt
Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:15 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Heads up Gran Fondo cycling race Saturday - expect delays
Replies: 7
Views: 12582

Re: Heads up Gran Fondo cycling race Saturday - expect delay

I'll second the memories of massive delays last year. It took almost 2 hours from horseshoe bay to get to Squamish. I'll suggest heading up the night before or after 11 to avoid the chaos.
by BlahMatt
Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:28 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 235104

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

So these guys bolting on lead, I assume they have to sit on a shitty aid piece to be able to drill a hole, no? I'm trying to imagine how you could drill a bolt on a slab with nothing but friction to keep you in place... I always thought they just sat on their giant titanium balls.. Alas, bolting on...
by BlahMatt
Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:04 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Rapping into south gully from the apron
Replies: 5
Views: 3636

Re: Rapping into south gully from the apron

I'm trying to think of where you would rap and I can't think of any easy way to do it. I'll have to take a look at the guide to see. 120m doesn't seem like it would be enough either.

Is there a reason not to walk off?
by BlahMatt
Wed Aug 22, 2012 9:25 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 235104

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

It's easy to argue over the grades in an area and there will always be some exceptions (ie. clean crack) but, when it comes down to it: -When I talk to climbers that are visiting Squamish, generally they are sending as hard or harder than they send at their home area (and other areas) & -When I talk...
by BlahMatt
Mon Jul 30, 2012 9:25 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 112
Views: 186794

Re: Wire Tap

Went up to the area yesterday (Sunday). 4 groups on wiretap (us included). Great route with a quick approach. Do it as 3 pitches if you are doing the wire crack route (link 1 - 2, 3, 4 - 5). Great beginner multi pitch. Thriller on the Pillar is well worth doing too (can rap with a single 60). Area s...
by BlahMatt
Wed Jul 18, 2012 4:05 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: rock on dry?
Replies: 2
Views: 2017

Re: rock on dry?

Rock on dry... You're so funny :)

Upper pitches almost definitely seeping but, it's great fun wet too. Go for it :)
by BlahMatt
Thu Jun 28, 2012 7:40 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Recommended approach to Star Chek
Replies: 9
Views: 7256

Re: Recommended approach to Star Chek

I made a post a while back on how to find and approach star chek https://productforums.google.com/forum/?fromgroups#!msg/gec-sports-hobbies/pYLerJcha2E/T1jHreVV2dYJ You can download the attachment and open in google earth for a view of it (even though it is pretty straightforward). I said to bring 2...
by BlahMatt
Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:45 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Teetering on the Brink of Madness
Replies: 20
Views: 34876

Re: Teetering on the Brink of Madness

relic wrote:traverses from that splitter crack.
Those are just bad words... :D
by BlahMatt
Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:01 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Grand Finale open for business!
Replies: 9
Views: 6191

Re: Grand Finale open for business!

Psyched to get on this once the closure is lifted! Seems like a killer way to finish up the grand!