Search found 88 matches

by MarkR
Mon Jun 01, 2015 7:20 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 146109

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

Yeah, I was turned off by the finish on Saturday. I'd been planning to try out this new crack after a lap on Skywalker, but after seeing that the anchors were placed 10-15 feet above where the crack peters out (and that the techy section was much steeper than it appeared in the pictures) I lost my n...
by MarkR
Sat Apr 25, 2015 5:23 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers
Replies: 23
Views: 77566

Re: A Guide to Sandbagging Newbies and Sportclimbers

Independent of how anyone feels personally about OP, shouldn't we be deleting posts that are made purely to generate traffic on a blog in the same way other, similar spam would be deleted?
by MarkR
Sat Oct 11, 2014 3:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards
Replies: 16
Views: 35368

Re: Inaugural Golden Scrub Brush Awards

I'll play. 1) Best new trad or mixed crag route (single pitch) hard 11 + , moderate 10- Best new moderate: Flex Capacitor (5.10 Jeremy Frimer, 2011) 4) Best new multi-pitch It's probably Sunset Strip, but I haven't done it yet so I'll vote for Hanging Gardens. 5) Best new crag or area. I feel like t...
by MarkR
Mon Oct 06, 2014 4:05 pm
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: Climbing Tuesday 7th & Thursday 9th in 5.10 range
Replies: 0
Views: 2180

Climbing Tuesday 7th & Thursday 9th in 5.10 range

Hey, I have a double rack to #4 (+1 #5) and a rope, looking to head up to Squish from Vancouver to climb some 10s, maybe some 11-. A few unticked goals for this season include: Split Beaver (10) Hand Jive (10) Clean Crack (11-) A Pitch in Time (10-) but I'm flexible on what we climb. I'm happy to ro...
by MarkR
Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:00 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Essential Squamish beta
Replies: 2
Views: 9231

Re: Essential Squamish beta

I agree with gmcg, 'twas better as a Galileo's. Coffee isn't appreciably better but now instead of free refills they're $2.00 each. Pastries are much smaller for the price, sandwiches are much more expensive and no bigger. I used to stop there whenever I headed to the bluffs for a coffee and a littl...
by MarkR
Wed Aug 20, 2014 2:26 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squamish Rampage Bouldering Comp.
Replies: 32
Views: 57569

Re: Squamish Rampage Bouldering Comp.

NateDoggOG wrote: Joe is a stand up guy, and I'd give him the benefit of the doubt that he wouldn't go behind peoples backs just to make this happen.
I can second this. Last climber I'd expect to pull some sleazy nonsense to realize his dream.
by MarkR
Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:39 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: jungle warfare anchors
Replies: 14
Views: 37755

Re: jungle warfare anchors

That's right Supes. I remember the staple, now that I think about it. More specifically, I remember rolling my eyes and climbing on, then bitching to my partners later about it. It would be nice if there was a proper anchor there. Can't comment on the rope drag you're gonna have by connecting the bo...
by MarkR
Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:30 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: jungle warfare anchors
Replies: 14
Views: 37755

Re: jungle warfare anchors

Yeah, I used the lower anchors that were maybe 40 feet off the ground (after the 10a crux), and despite some serious runouts and extension to reduce rope drag, the drag was absurd by the time I got into the offwidth. It felt like the rope was pulling me down. Sucked! Yeah, I didn't think the gear lo...
by MarkR
Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:03 pm
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: .
Replies: 0
Views: 1145

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by MarkR
Thu Jun 19, 2014 7:02 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Current conditions in Squamish
Replies: 65
Views: 203546

Re: Current conditions in Squamish

J Mace wrote:UE will be wet.
Thanks for your response J Mace. Out of curiosity, do you mean "wet in a few areas but aidable", "wet in lots of places but aidable" or "wet and sketchy"?
by MarkR
Wed Jun 18, 2014 10:36 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Current conditions in Squamish
Replies: 65
Views: 203546

Re: Current conditions in Squamish

I'd like to guide a buddy up the Chief before he leaves Vancouver forever (he's never done a proper ground-to-peak route). Anyways, we really only have Saturday as an option to play with. We were aiming for Angel's Crest, but given the rain that we're calling for tomorrow I'm thinking it will still ...
by MarkR
Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:03 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Smoke Bluffs got a haircut
Replies: 3
Views: 6496

Re: Smoke Bluffs got a haircut

That explains why I've been looking at Alexis this last week and thinking "huh...why have I never noticed those cracks before?" They look cool, I want to go climb them now.

Good news, I'm all for more light/wind and fewer trees in the bluffs, but they'll be back.
by MarkR
Sat Aug 31, 2013 5:56 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Climbing at Squamish: The First 50 Years (History Project)
Replies: 6
Views: 12894

Re: Climbing at Squamish: The First 50 Years (History Projec

Stoked Anders, I'll buy at least one.
by MarkR
Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:39 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: SVMF impact on climbers?
Replies: 9
Views: 7885

Re: SVMF impact on climbers?

Huh! You're right. I wonder where all that music was coming from then? How bizarre.