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Agreed. Super casual. Don't bother with the gear.

Hard move is 1 .9 move on the last pitch. It is an abrupt bit of technical (but only one move and then casual again) in the midst of cruiser-ville.

P

I call troll.

P

Well, well. The gang is all out (kinda). So now, he said, she said (who is who here?) is the name of the game it seems. So Kevin and crew have legitimate (ish) concerns with damage to GWN due to rockfall from cleaning. Jer wants a clean casual route going the full height of the Chief. If we had to p...

I think everyone needs to get together in a room with a few beers and sort this out. The persons involved have spent many hours in CRAG meetings together, discussing such matters. Last night was another example. It doesn't work. Unlike most conflicts, this one does not seem to reduce to a misunders...

Wow that was fast. Jer's second comment was removed in record time...

This sounds a whole lot nuts. I think everyone needs to get together in a room with a few beers and sort this out.

Paul

[quote="thordriver"] and likely in Squamish. [/quote Hey there, Saw your post on the taco a week back or so. Sounds sh#*y. Good luck with your ongoing search (I guess, though it kinda does come across as a bit lone rangerish) A question if I may? This last bit seems a bit more location specific than...

Sad news indeed. May he rest in peace. Condolences and best wishes to his family and friends. The month of June was really unusually bad for accidents. In the course of the three weeks before this accident there was one major rescue from the Apron and a ground fall at Pet. Take care out there everyo...

Isn't Smell of Fat Chick totally overgrown? It's supposed to be a 4 star line when it's clean. yes it is and yes it is. OK Dru take it on! Two people can easily clean apitch in less than 1 day. All you need are some nut tools, wire brushes (cheap) and possibly a small handsaw (a swiss army knife sa...

What about the fixed nuts that are on the line now? Should those be removed every time they get stuck? Paul Yes they should be removed, in fact that's another debate, as the 'ol fixed nut, seems to be appearing more and more these days..... :wink: Update: nuts no longer in place. There were two sta...

Hi Brendan;

I must have missed your sarcasm on that...

Good discussion going on here.

Paul

With no pin or bolt it could make FOTC one of the purest all gear climbs in squam, . I guess it depends on if you want to have a pure trad line or have the same experience as the FAist. At the time of the FA there were fixed pins in place (not just at the bottom, but also in the grove up higher). W...

I think if you clip that bolt it is ok, but the rope drag might suck some unless you use a longer draw, which you don't really want right at the ground. Guess you pick the priority here, safety near the ground or drag up higher. I guess using that bolt depends on people not stripping it everytime it...

Full disclosure, I've been working on getting the sack to lead FotC and was at pet when the pin was pulled yesterday. Good news is the climber walked away. Lucky dude. So I am a bit biased in a couple of ways. That said I think I would always say the below in this case even if the above wasn't true....

Have fun pushing yourself in Stanley Park.... and with all that etc.?

And please don't suggest to anyone that soloing in SP is a good idea. It most certainly is not.

P

Awwww, seriously? I don't really care if climbing in Stanley Park is illegal or not. It is just a stupid idea. Again, seriously? The rock is crap, both because of the rock quality (hahahaha) and the rampant birdshit. You are climbing in an area that has hundreds of people an hour underneath and you ...