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This seems like an accident waiting to happen. Can the base be closed as this tree and debris are removed? Sounds like it needs to be done asap, before someone gets hurt.

thanks so much for bringing this to our attention.

the 11 is way more fun, imho. carry a couple of long slings, with a knot about halfway. clip the bolt, step in, step up and away you go.

the rest of the pitch is 10a fun.

I ran into a party of two on the weekend who arrived at the base climbs of st vitus/calculus crack only to find a gaggle of people there and were forced to find another climb to do. I wonder if this gaggle had thought about the implications of their climbing choice. it seems that a bunch of friends,...

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For those who are interested: My partner and I climbed the upper pitches of STH today. As per the guidebook we climbed the 1st pitch of upper Millenium Falcon, the next 3 pitches of STH (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) and finished up the newly cleaned last pitch of the black dyke. A fun day on good rock with ver...

Man, rough thread! How about we're appreciative of the fact that, as a result of Kevin's work, we have a comprehensive guide to climbing in Squamish - perfect beta or not. Flaws exist, and noting them is a good thing - as other have noted, sending a polite email is being constructive an productive ...

The guidebook topo on pages 294-295 implies the numbered pitches 9, 10, 13 (part), 14 and 15 as being the line to follow. The pitches are marked "project", but that is all too contradictory and the topo should have shown the route as being the way the FA was done, via Millenium Falcon and the last ...

one of those Rob'-on Boring routes that has one of those "it's alpine--whatever will get me down"/"I'm creative, not safe" anchors, is next to Fata Morgana--35 m hard 10b. It's a new or reworked route. I'm critical of the guy because there is often no way of knowing which routes have those anchors. ...

the first pitch of ue has one awkward move, maybe 10a. beta helps there.
the third, sixth and eighth pitches have awkward/delicate 5.9 moves; only the sixth is trad. the last pitch has one or two strenuous moves but take good gear--easy to rest.

All other trad moves are easier.

Brendan wrote:jeff, have you done the direct finish? it's good.

it looks delicate and technical and well bolted to take a fall or three on.

i did this route years ago, so i was surprised to find a new start when i did it recently. The old route went up the gully andthen onto the arete. now the bottom of the arete has been cleaned and bolted. The old grade was 5.9 but the beginning of the arete seems way way harder than 5.9, to me. it ha...

Who's around tomorrow?

trad, sport or boulder--i wanna get out.

jeff

miriam wrote:Anybody up for some trad climbing this Friday (22 of August)? I'm sure there's something dry in the Bluffs... Or some Apron climb in the afternoon, or anything that's dry enough. I lead 5.9 to 10a (second 11s), but can belay anything

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over the years i have had the pleasure (mostly) of climbing with a variety of partners--we often pooled our gear, so that i've used many brands of cam, and other gear, including tri-cams and hexes (omg). IMHO, it's all good. there are some minor variations. Holding power is not one of them. btw, i l...

he's a beginner leader. A range of sizes of nuts and a handful of any kind of cam that the shops here carry will work for a beginner leader on easy territory.