SquamishClimbing.com

Oh, you mean Women in Comfortable Shoes. Good call, but no. This route is about 7x harder (grade wise)
Funny enough I did WiCS a couple of days ago, followed by Stiff Upper Lip. Best .11a I’ve done in the Bulletheads in a long time.

timelessbeing wrote:First one is the black dyke. The 3rd is stairway to heaven.

Black Dyke is correct.
Stairway to Heaven is wrong.

Any takers… This one’s easy: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb4/mezz0italiano/IMG_7011.jpg This one is relatively easy: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb4/mezz0italiano/IMG_7023-1.jpg This climb is as obvious as the photo of The Sword in the above post: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb4...

Cool, something new and moderate to go do!

For the record, Liquid Gold is awesome. I didn’t find it too awful like the new description, although I did run it from the last bolt to the gear belay on p1 to avoid horrendous rope drag. But there were a few places to put gear in should one want to.

Wow, how on Earth did that chick fall off that JUG on Rainy Day Dream Away? It’s so big.

Yep, those darn wasps get damn huffy when disturbed. The ones on Token Brits ran at me backwards out of the crack while buzzing their wings and showing me their stingers…then they launched a full out attack.

J Mace, where does the S. Face route go in both your pics? Draw in lines would you.

I decided to climb Token Brits Direct again for some reason, and now there are TWO wasps nests. The first one (mentioned above) is in the thin face crack about 3’ below and to the right of that huge face jug which is on the left, and which is used to mantle up on that ledge then clip the bolt. The s...

Nate, which pitch(es) did you hear were sandbagged? My partner and I both felt that the 4th pitch traverse was no harder than mid .10 and it is best linked with pitch 3, to avoid a silly gear belay. If I am not mistaken, Bruce put that bolt in at the top of the 3rd pitch so it can be linked with the...

Thanks for the reply Eric, and good job on the send!

Would you be able to briefly break-down the times, as you mentioned it being a long day from Squam. I would love to do this as a day trip from the North Shore, but am not sure how that would go over.

Thanks!

Eric,
Which way/variation did you take? It looks like there are a few choices on the above topo.

Thanks!

relic, can you link the Facade/Simian Response .10d pitch into the Gauntlet, without going up the .12b second pitch?

Beware there is also a small wasps nest (wasps present) on Token Brits Direct, about halfway up after the corner but below the bolts, in the face crack. It’s in a portion of the crack that a climber testing his skills would definitely want to place gear in, but a confident leader could bypass.

imnotnate wrote:did they take the topo down off quickdraw's website, or am i just not seeing it?

It’s in the new guide.