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Anders has suggested an excellent alternative--from Britannia Beach to a better viewpoint. This would give all what they want: The developers make money. Tourists get amazing views. Britannia Beach welcomes more tourists. Climbers and hikers can continue to climb unfettered by views of a gondola. It...

It may be wise to show your friend how to take the rope out of a device without losing the device. I've watched many people end up with the belay device in one hand and the belay biner in the other, then drop or fumble the device before they get it clipped back into the biner. I have found many bela...

I've always found it interesting to compare the culture of climbing with so-called normal activities, such as tennis and golf. Those two seem so different from climbing, with their strict rules, prescribed behaviours and even dress codes. Climbing, by contrast, is anarchic. We can do what we like, o...

Re p2: I've asked people for their impressions of this pitch: The consensus is that it is at least a very hard 5.8. i think it is harder than flying circus (10a), Sally five fingers (8), octopus garden (8), or p1 of hairpin (8). While the moves are not hard to figure out, it is sustained, strenuous,...

Recently I have been on three new routes--calculus direct, butt face and sky walker. All were, in a word, amazing. I am equally amazed at the amount of work that went into cleaning and bolting these routes.

Thanks again guys!

jeff

there are two gullies. the one to the right is the easier and safer of the two.

it is a steep gully with some loose rock. i would not characterize it as a chimney. You may find one or two class 3 moves, the rest are class 2.

OK, that is interesting to know. So, how far is it, from a legal pov, to where action can be taken against someone for placing non-standard bolts/belay anchors or for chopping bolts? Do we want to go the American route where they have a backcountry/wilderness bolting ban? I believe the Canadian appr...

As Anders suggests, it would be worthwhile to have create a list of acceptable and not acceptable behaviours for route creation and other related activities. However, I do not see how such a list can be made to be compulsory. For instance, if I climbed a route in the compulsory closed falcon nesting...

Given his nefarious, unwarranted and unwanted activities, i think it would be a good idea to out him here. if there are liability issues, then perhaps placing some posters in around squamish saying "hey joe, we know who you are...." might help curb his activities.

how is kevin's piece in gripped related to this discussion?

Even if the climbing community reaches a consensus, as Anders mentions, and even if there are rules put in place, and even if there is, goodness forbid, a committee to approve all route creation/development, how would these rules be enforced? How would the rules/committee prevent an anonymous person...

I also spoke with Robin about his choice of hangars (painted black) and his anchors with cheapo bolts and galvanized steel chains. For one, he said that shiny steel reflects sunlight and detracts from the natural look of the cliff face. Painted black hangers and galvanized steel do not reflect and t...

wire tap
neat and cool
jabberwocky