Search found 219 matches
- Sat Jul 03, 2010 7:19 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: The Milk Road - 9p, 5.10d A0 (5.11d)
- Replies: 31
- Views: 25697
Did this yesterday. I'll use the word "climbed" loosely ;-) P4 has rests, good ones, even a couple of almost no-hands, after about 20m. Like Paul told Prudence, "look around..." The final slab traverse is brilliant-- super position and technically tricky. grades -- 10D seems right for that 40m pitch...
- Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:38 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Angel's Crest variations
- Replies: 7
- Views: 4168
- Sun Jun 27, 2010 8:13 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Angel's Crest variations
- Replies: 7
- Views: 4168
Re: Angel's Crest variations
the off-width: bring 2x #6 camalot and a big bro if you are paranoid. it is NOT 10b-- more like 5.8-- and the crux is the bottom 15 feet. This would be a GREAT candidate for a bolt or two, cos, honestly, who wants to haul 2x #6 and a big bro on A.C.? I do. Honestly. well then it will keep on ot bei...
- Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:55 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Cleaning Projects List
- Replies: 17
- Views: 8288
- Sun Jun 27, 2010 12:56 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: music
- Replies: 0
- Views: 950
music
yo bluegrassers-- there's quite a good Yankee combo at Psyche Ledge right now, in site 33. Stand- bass, a very good mando-fiddle, and two singing guitarists. I got to sit in with them last night and they were great. If you are there, or passing through, look them up. One guitarist is named Zack. the...
- Sun Jun 27, 2010 12:45 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Angel's Crest variations
- Replies: 7
- Views: 4168
Angel's Crest variations
Ok did it yesterday, here's the scoop (thanks to other people for the beta) I am just putting it all in one place Direct start -- MUCH better than that idiotic tree-gulch thing. Go up lef past normal start (in gully) about 10 meters, look on right-- Barley bolts. 10b, bolts and gear, bring a few lon...
- Sun Jun 27, 2010 12:34 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Cleaning Projects List
- Replies: 17
- Views: 8288
Isn't Smell of Fat Chick totally overgrown? It's supposed to be a 4 star line when it's clean. yes it is and yes it is. OK Dru take it on! Two people can easily clean apitch in less than 1 day. All you need are some nut tools, wire brushes (cheap) and possibly a small handsaw (a swiss army knife sa...
- Fri Jun 25, 2010 4:36 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Wire Tap
- Replies: 112
- Views: 186634
Hi Damien-- I did this last w/e. I think the final bolt on p4 of wiretap is superfluous-- you have a good horizontal right there. Dunno why you guys did P5-- my partner led it and said "this is totally f*cking gay; they should have quit while they were ahead" but I am sure you had your reasons. If I...
- Fri Jun 25, 2010 7:35 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Dancing i.t. Light cleaning-- Sunday the 10th.
- Replies: 15
- Views: 8662
a direct pitch into snake (skipping the first scrambly bit). Damien, do you mean, there is one and you want to clean it, or you want to put a new first pitch up? If you wana put one up, I woudl be down for that. I have a drill and I will have some time this summer. I'll attempt to describe with wor...
- Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:25 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Cleaning Projects List
- Replies: 17
- Views: 8288
Cleaning Projects List
There are probably 200+ climbs in the Corridor that are good, and overgrown. I bet there's at least 1000 trad climbers in the Van-Squamish area alone. If every climber cleaned one pitch every two years, we would have a couple of hundred decent "new" routes to climb instead of repeating Penny Lane or...
- Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:06 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Dancing i.t. Light cleaning-- Sunday the 10th.
- Replies: 15
- Views: 8662
- Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:06 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Dancing i.t. Light cleaning-- Sunday the 10th.
- Replies: 15
- Views: 8662
- Thu Jun 24, 2010 1:04 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Bolted start to Angel's Crack
- Replies: 13
- Views: 6778
I am doing it Sat afternoon When you make statements like that you upset the weather gods....now you need to sacrifice something to make it right Argh f**k you're right, Mace. I'll see if my girlfriend is willing to cut the beating heart out of one of her children. Next time, I will say "and should...
- Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:55 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Dancing i.t. Light cleaning-- Sunday the 10th.
- Replies: 15
- Views: 8662
Re: New Routes
Seriously, there should be a "to-do" list of climbs to scrub. I have only done 2 (Dancing in the Light and Unfinished Symphony) but both got more traffic afterward and yea, it feels pretty rewarding. Ok let's get it going on: folks you recommend what ought to get scrubbed, and I will collate a list,...
- Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:41 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Bolted start to Angel's Crack
- Replies: 13
- Views: 6778
Re: Angel's crest - new pitch at bottom & option to tree
sounds cool. I am doing it Sat afternoon-- what pitch # is this variation on? And by "a few bigger pieces" do you mean a #4? Also...anybody know what size gear that o/w variation to one of the 5.9 pitches takes? "It is between the original start and the tree start." I just climbed Angel's Crest on J...