SquamishClimbing.com

Just wanted to add that my comments before were about Clean Corner as well, not YPLS.

I would still enjoy seeing some discussion on this issue and would invite the "No bolts on Clean Corner" crowd to expand on that sentiment.

Mike

So after no one showed much interest in my photos here i decided to post up on the taco and see what the result would be... So far it's been much more interesting!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum ... nd-Stories

Hurtin Productions brings you a little eye candy... http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6195/6142983298_d061c41e70_z.jpg Kangaroo Corner 11a FA Peter Croft, Tami Knight 1978 You'll find this classic at the Smoke Bluffs. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6185/6142430291_b13f409fb4_z.jpg Luke almost got the r...

Ya no big deal for trad climbers. Sport/Gym climbers who have a little single pitch bluffs under their belts as noob trad leaders? Big Deal :) Don't get me wrong. I am not advocating that all the moderate climbs out there need bolts. I was simply saying that the recipe for a popular (read:BUSY) clim...

I think it's Partners in Crime right Luke? One thing you can do buddy, grab the cam if you really think your gonna bail and it's a bad situation. Sometimes a take is better than a whip.

Mike

Oh ya, Europa has a couple gear belays and some tree belays according to the topo. I dunno haven't been up there yet myself. Bradley is right too most climbs around here do have bolted belays but not a large majority of the moderate multi-pitches on the apron do. I think that's a good thing though, ...

You are right avit, I did forget Slot Machine and the lower half of the connect. There are other ones too, Amo wall has a few moderates (slab), Old Style/Cider Crack/High Mountain Woody at the Malamute what are some other ones guys? I can identify with the noob mentality when it comes to natural anc...

Memorial crack is super fun man. Takes lots of good gear. The best advice is take karen's math to get there it's awesome too!

Flying circus was one of the more heady leads in my early trad career. It was especially so at the time for me, because i had been figuring out the gear for a couple days, and then this happened. http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1922&hilit=flying+circus+fatality "...

Nice advice Jeff

Even easier.

1. Feed six inches of slack into the belay device
2. Unlock biner
3. Open gate and remove rope from biner
4. Close gate
5. Pull rope from device
6. Unclip biner with device and clip to gear loop

This way you never remove it from your harness until your storing it.

List of local multi pitch climbs with bolted belays, below 5.9.

Charlotte's web
Emil and the detectives
Star Chek
Phantom Menace
Diedre
Skywalker

there are a couple scruffy two pitch climbs at Rehab Projects too.

Bolted belays, easy. Watch out for the masses

Mike

Make sure you write your name in your copy good sir. Someone might want it some day.

Ultimate Everything was my first full Chief ascent and I will never forget it.

Mike

Wrestled is definetly one way to put it. Luke won the Rocheambo and chose the first pitch. So I got all the hard pitches. The 10c a0 traverse is sick! Good hand jams on a sick flake that just tired me out more every move until I yelled take! The traverse is very protectable and the a0 bolt ladder wo...

Sorry Luke I was told different.
So then your actually the person to ask what up with the angle?

Mike

You guys talking about this pitch? http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6073/6061443112_017d8c55fd_z.jpg Angle of this photo is a little funny. I flipped it, this is the original. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6079/6061443252_4f0654cc5f_z.jpg I haven't been up there this year so i can't remember. The chi...