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AFAIK the Connector stop is at the adventure centre. The campground is under the Chief (the obvious giant granite monolith) about 3 km back south along the road toward Vancouver. You might be able to persuade the bus driver to drop you off closer to the campground, for example at the Sea to Sky Gond...

tobyfk wrote:Four bolts, currently. The second is hard to clip so I may move it down or add another.

I have added a fixed draw to the second bolt. I decided that I would wait until I hear some feedback on the route, before doing anything more permanent.

The Asp ... climbs the obvious sharp arete forming the left side of the "slot canyon" left of Marion Ravenwood. Sustained thoughtful face climbing, making frequent use of the arete edge. Four bolts, currently. The second is hard to clip so I may move it down or add another. Grade is about 11a, cert...

BTW, with respect to Sunblessed, that start is 5.8 to first bolt. And the finish to Caboose is 5.9. Both a little different compared to this route (although one wouldn't want to fall on that Caboose finish) Well, considering Sunblessed and - if I understand correctly - the original pre-bolt start t...

rolfr wrote:Shutting down climbers on a moderate route with one unprotected sequence

Have you actually climbed the route, Rolf?

tobyfk wrote:4a extension ... not shown ... keep going to the top through steep ground past 5 more bolts to an airy top-out. No difference in grade. The final anchors are not well positioned at the moment - I will be moving them.

Top anchors now re-located.

Another update on this wall. Five routes now: 1. Meet the New Choss 5.11a 7 bolts Straight up through overlaps, then tricky rightwards traverse into the obvious groove. 2. Same as the Old Choss 5.12b 6 bolts Direct through the big overhang into the previous route. The official beta involves heelhook...

The conjuring is a decent route too but I don't think it merits the 5-star rating it got in the update. The conjuring definitely has a hard to clip second bolt that a stick clip is nice for depending on your personal ethics. I agree on this. It is an odd choice for the five stars. The rock is very ...

tsouth wrote:

tobyfk wrote:The draw on Snowglobe is of similar age, I think.

I'd love to replace all the old fixed draws with shiny steel ones but they're costly things and I'm a student... again

Sorry, I didn't mean "why didn't you replace the others?"! A job for someone else, for sure. I might do it.

The draw on Snowglobe is of similar age, I think.

Got around to replacing the two draws. There are nice shiny new fixe steel draws were the old nylon ones were. It's only the two as the rest are easier to clip. I considered moving the second fixed draw up to the next bolt which I honestly find harder to clip but figured it was best to stick to whe...

Your guess about the reason for locking the other thread is basically correct. Web forums are strange beasts. One would think that after ~15-20 years in common usage, people would have given up on trolling, dick-swinging and similar behaviours, but apparently not. If anyone has an issue with the mo...

If I'm not confident in my partner's lowering competence, I'll keep a hand on the line while being lowered or rappel. I do this 100% of the time - hold the rope lightly when lowering for the first few metres, to confirm that I am still on belay - regardless of my partner's competence. It seems a go...

Thanks for the on-topic comments, Perry. Your guess about the reason for locking the other thread is basically correct. Web forums are strange beasts. One would think that after ~15-20 years in common usage, people would have given up on trolling, dick-swinging and similar behaviours, but apparently...

On the other hand, the incidence of accidents occurring because of confusion over rap vs lowering decisions is meaningfully high. The classic situation being that the belayer stops belaying because they expect their leader to rappel, then the leader takes a ground-fall when they try to lower. I get...