Search found 252 matches

by Lurch
Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:44 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 18633

Re: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p

8th pitch was good. Takes good nuts at the end if you dig some of the pine needles out of the crack! http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6071/6044509087_09b5c1dbf4_z.jpg UpperEchelonP8 by bigmike1974 , on Flickr Overall, fun climb. A little more on the adventure side then some of the more popular routes,...
by Lurch
Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:42 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 18633

Re: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p

7th pitch was pretty mellow. Fun but easy..
Image
UpperEchelonP7 by bigmike1974, on Flickr
by Lurch
Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:40 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 18633

Re: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p

We skipped pitch five and six because it was my partners first time up the chief and the 10d pitch killed him, but i got a photo of the start of 5. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6187/6044508793_a5e3c8ebd3_z.jpg UpperEchelonP5 by bigmike1974 , on Flickr We were planning to check out the last two pit...
by Lurch
Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:37 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 18633

Re: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p

Pitch 4 seemed more like 5.9 especially with a little wetness. Seems this summer has been too wet and cold for the seepage to dry yet. It was a little runout between the piton and the bolt, a couple small tcu's will help. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6188/6045057576_6e2133e150_z.jpg UpperEchelonP4...
by Lurch
Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:34 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 18633

Re: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p

Pitch 3 10d for me for sure and i'm 6'7! Managed to clip the bolt but had to aid the moves after that. Going back for this one! Awesome pitch!
Photo credit: PY Boivin
Image
UpperEchelonP3Mike by bigmike1974, on Flickr
by Lurch
Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:29 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p
Replies: 25
Views: 18633

Re: Upper Echelon 5.10c 8p

I finally took a crack at this one Saturday. I've done Ultimate countless times and wanted to try something new in that area. Pitch 1 5.8 seemed appropriate. Fun moves to get to the bolt. Pitch 2 10b seems more like it.. only a couple moves after the bolt though and then it eases http://farm7.static...
by Lurch
Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: If you climbed Angel's Crest on Friday, Aug. 12...
Replies: 5
Views: 2400

Re: If you climbed Angel's Crest on Friday, Aug. 12...

Hey Q7.

I talked to my buddy kyle about this post and he said "good karma comes to those who let faster parties pass them!"

Mike
by Lurch
Sat Aug 13, 2011 11:40 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Preferred Rope Lengths?
Replies: 11
Views: 4422

Re: Preferred Rope Lengths?

Hey Eric, as long as you can get to the belay it's good enough for me. I'm just scrapping my way up most harder 10c/d's but the fact that I can do that, I find impressive since when I started I never imagined being able to accomplish that. I had to aid the crux on the 10d on Upper Echelon but I got ...
by Lurch
Sat Aug 13, 2011 12:16 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 182553

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

I finally got a chance to get on this today. Wow. Nice work Jeremy! The last time i was at Shannon there wasn't a soul in sight and the trail was all grown over. I climbed klahanie and cardhu crack and top roped dirty dicky and they were dirty! Well kalhanie was realitively clean but not squeaky cle...
by Lurch
Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:40 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Preferred Rope Lengths?
Replies: 11
Views: 4422

Re: Preferred Rope Lengths?

Nick Ya apparently twins you clip as one rope together and halfs you don't want to do that cause it creates more forces. The other nice thing about halfs is less forces so sketchy pro is better too. Send me a pm maybe I can get out with you after work sometime next week. Mike ps +1 Bearbreeder that'...
by Lurch
Thu Aug 11, 2011 10:15 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Spring Cleaning
Replies: 63
Views: 39850

Re: Spring Cleaning

How about it boys? Where is bruce's reply? Why no discussion? Certainly sounds like the pitch has changed for the worse since it's fa? How is this fair? I'm all for keeping the history and character if the fa intact, I consider routes like snake and merci me spicy, and fun. In this case though it so...
by Lurch
Thu Aug 11, 2011 9:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Preferred Rope Lengths?
Replies: 11
Views: 4422

Re: Preferred Rope Lengths?

Hey Nick,

do you like twins or halfs and why?

Mike
by Lurch
Thu Aug 11, 2011 4:55 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Replies: 26
Views: 57204

Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)

My buddy and I got on this route last weekend. We decided on it last minute so I didn't have the topo handy but I thought I remembered it, and we were looking at the vague description in the mclane guide. We thought it started at bullethead ledge so we climbed Feeling Groovy 5.9 to get there. My par...
by Lurch
Thu Aug 11, 2011 2:46 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Preferred Rope Lengths?
Replies: 11
Views: 4422

Re: Preferred Rope Lengths?

Oh yeah. I forgot to address the length question. 60m is definetly the norm around here and most pitches are setup for it. I only buy 70m ropes though, and the reason is more 35m pitches are starting to go up these days, and when you start stringing together pitches on multi's that extra 10m comes i...
by Lurch
Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:22 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Preferred Rope Lengths?
Replies: 11
Views: 4422

Re: Preferred Rope Lengths?

Don't let the mec guy dissuade you fishy, doubles work great around here, there are lots of wandering pitches but everyone just slings everything and deals with the rope drag cause no one really knows how to use doubles, so they don't buy them. They are expensive too! You pay the same price for one ...