Search found 77 matches

by rolfr
Mon Jul 19, 2010 10:18 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: White Taped Route
Replies: 20
Views: 11428

Please respect the tagged routes didn't have red tape. A couple of injuries has delayed sending the routes. I will post topo and info soon. Working on a couple more crags in the area. Rolf
by rolfr
Thu May 20, 2010 5:59 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Slab Alley Restoration Project
Replies: 85
Views: 83179

Hi Anders I probably climbed SA 20- 30 times in the 70,s and 80,s. Please don’t add any bolts to the upper pitches, these pitches are about route finding and never need to be harder than 5.7. They may seem heady but are no more difficult than the upper pitches of Diedre. The odd piece of protection ...
by rolfr
Wed May 19, 2010 7:52 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: teenage girls wont blow gorbies.
Replies: 4
Views: 3138

I have always thought this route was stellar! Robin chopped the intermediate anchor on the slab just above the 10b headwall start last year. Dale Caldwell who put up TGWBG realized you needed an anchor here, because rope stretch at the crux (beginning of the headwall) would result in a bad ledge fal...
by rolfr
Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:30 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Road to Chek
Replies: 22
Views: 11899

Road to Chek

Anyone been up to Chek lately? Is the road clear?
by rolfr
Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: City of Squamish Report
Replies: 13
Views: 5554

Once upon a time the Canadian Government had a vast climbing area in the middle of nowhere. A climber said, "Someone needs to protect this cliff." So the government created a climber watchman position and hired a person (bilingual, naturally) for the job. Then the Government said, "How can the watch...
by rolfr
Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:13 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Who chopped the bolts on Raging Duck?
Replies: 19
Views: 11325

Rather than flog that dead horse “ bolting issue”, when, where, how many, at what acceptable degree of difficulty, and who has the bigger set of cojones, I offer a solution. I retro bolted Raging Duck to make it more accessible and moss free in a popular area. I will restore it to the original one b...
by rolfr
Mon Jan 18, 2010 7:02 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Who chopped the bolts on Raging Duck?
Replies: 19
Views: 11325

Who chopped the bolts on Raging Duck?

Please identify yourself and your reasons for chopping the bolts. As a first ascentionist of numerous routes, every time I clean , bolt or rebolt a climb , I am open to public scrutiny and accountable for my actions by the climbing community. I am constantly aware of this responsibility and try to w...
by rolfr
Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:21 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mold Disaster
Replies: 4
Views: 2131

A mixture of bleach and water sprayed on your crash pad will kill the spores. They are not potentially toxic until the mold drys and the spores become airborne. I agree wash your slings and gear. Mold is a bit of an alarmist issue these days, the forests are full of molds and spores and always have ...
by rolfr
Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:20 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mold Disaster
Replies: 4
Views: 2131

A mixture of bleach and water sprayed on your crash pad will kill the spores. They are not potentially toxic until the mold drys and the spores become airborne. I agree wash your slings and gear. Mold is a bit of an alarmist issue these days, the forests are full of molds and spores and always have ...
by rolfr
Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:34 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Mosquito Area
Replies: 52
Views: 31877

Place a new anchor and be done with it, after all the bluffs are a KletterGarden and moving traffic always helps. Why not push a new route up to the right of Phlegmish dance or rebrush the trail right to the routes Rolling Stones 5.8 and Rubber Soul 5.9, which Ivan and i put up years ago. Overgrown ...
by rolfr
Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:12 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New route in Lynn Valley
Replies: 3
Views: 2688

New route in Lynn Valley

New route at Sully's (aka the Dark Side) Between Shake Your Lettuce and Special K. "SERENE" Longest route on crag, 10 bolts. Overbolted to avoid the tree and huggers. 11c if you climb left near the top to a big rest or 12A if you climb the last two bolts direct. Sustained. FA R Rybak, FA Direct Fini...
by rolfr
Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:50 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Chek new route
Replies: 4
Views: 3346

Put up by Rolf Rybak and Mike Teschke April 27. Shaggy. 6 bolts and fixed biners for rap. Please use draws to toprope if you don,t want a twisted rope. Super fun and steep 5.9 , quality climbing, finger and hand jams, jugs, gaston, sidepull and even a heelhook if you want. Bolted safe for new leader...
by rolfr
Tue Mar 31, 2009 4:38 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sun on Apron
Replies: 5
Views: 2662

April and September are the best times to climb Apron slabs, great friction and quality of light. Put on a fleece and climb in the afternoon after the lineup on Diedre has bottle necked at the last wet pitch . Better yet climb Slab Alley from the orignal start and finish up on A Question of Balance ...
by rolfr
Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: North Van climbing spot
Replies: 8
Views: 6025

Come on Shawn , post the topo! The best way to keep moss of routes is to have people climb them. This crag is too sweet not to share. There may be a few unfinished projects but most climbers are too lazy a$% to poach them. Yeah, yeah, yeah the Shore may be wet but this cliff is unique, you actually ...
by rolfr
Fri Feb 06, 2009 9:50 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: bolt failure
Replies: 14
Views: 6456

Dru wrote: If there were "bolt police" at Squamish they'd probably have arrested Barley long ago and there would be hundreds fewer routes. Barley bashing seems to have become sport even in tragic posts. If you can do it better show me don't disrespect serious posts ! How sad that you have to use mis...