SquamishClimbing.com

Headpointing doesn't prevent onsights. Far from it. Cobra Crack was headpointed but it's a pure crack line. In a decade or so when solid 5.14 trad ascents are commonplace, someone WILL onsight it. The guys who have climbed it to date, though, have realized they have no chance of onsighting it, and h...

Being bummed about losing gear will teach you not to lose it the next time. Being happy to have found gear will make you look more closely for future lost or stuck stuff and help to keep the crags clean. easy come, easy go. I'm always willing to tell other people where I have left gear if I think th...

If I leave it and you find it it's yours.
If you leave it and I find it it's mine.

Slippers are good for tips and finger cracks For anything bigger generally a stiffer shoe is less painful. Stiffness however can mean two things with respect to shoes - front to back and side to side. Front to back stiffness is not so important for a crack shoe, and less of it will mean more sensiti...

I was up on this route about 10 yrs ago with Luc Mailloux and at that time one of the anchors at the top of the 4th pitch was a cammed bong piton behind a flake that you could lift out by hand...

Maybe if it got decent anchors it would see more traffic.

On Saturday, while climbing Powaaqatsi, we also saw a guidebook (from Rock On) and what was apparently a cam and quickdraw (from Calculus) get dropped into the gully. Spent about 10 minutes searching on the way out but couldn't find anything. However, it would seem there's enough booty in the gully ...

Ya, I found this

http://bryophytes.science.oregonstate.edu/page24.htm

That suggests bleach is perhaps the best option aside from "physical removal" ie wirebrushes.

:roll: trhanks for the helpful responses; to be clearer, my original question was more about some inhibitor to prevent moss regrowing on a scrubbed boulder over the winter rather than something to replace scrubbing entirely. i understand that powerwashing, come-alongs and so on are standard for Squa...

if i remember rightly it's a 12a,

it was reported here, somewhere?

I have heard that powdered zinc works well as a moss killer - spread it on top of a crag in the late fall and come back in spring time to find all the moss dead. Some of these areas out in the Valley where routes and problems have been scrubbed 4 oir 5 years ago and are vanishing back into the moss ...

aliens sometimes fall apart. i do not trust them, personally.

master cams, tcus, and zero cams are more trustworthy options

i hate tieing in with the rope cause it makes it harder to start simulclimbing when your partner needs an extra fifteen meters to make the next ledge and you have to f**k around untying the knots....

A couple holds have broken off Route Sucker since the FA...

I mostly stopped using cordelettes, in favour of the good ol' sliding-X.

The Metolius PAS is another good option, safer than a daisy, but does not solve the issue of having two climbers anchored to the same powerpoint - not as good for block leading.

There are a couple of other, worthwhile climbs in that canyon btw. oh? like what? I might be biased but "Nine Inch Rage Against Jane's Tool" is similar in nature and grade to World's Toughest Milkman and worth three stars. The 10d just right is pretty good too. Some of the Tom Clark stuff on the ot...