Search found 112 matches

by t-bone
Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:57 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls
Replies: 19
Views: 37230

Re: Chebacca's 5.10b 3p at Shannon Falls

I did this route last week and concur with the other posters - it's an really good climb with a couple of excellent pitches. Yet another new 4-star 5.10 route! p1: Some easier climbing leads to a short steep finger/hand crack. p2: Grind up the wide flare with excellent pro in the back of the crack. ...
by t-bone
Sat Jul 13, 2013 5:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunset Strip horror show
Replies: 52
Views: 91784

Re: Sunset Strip horror show

Had a chance to climb the route today. It certainly seems like the 'route-du-jour' - we were the first of 4 parties on it this morning. I would echo what the other posters are saying - it is a VERY good route, probably the best 5.10 multi-pitch in Squamish. I think it is of better quality than MF as...
by t-bone
Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:53 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Falcon Closure Update
Replies: 8
Views: 8430

Re: Falcon Closure Update

I climbed Borderline today (not knowing about the closure) and did in fact see a Peregrine. I was atop the 2nd pitch and saw one fly in at about my elevation and land on the Terrace (just to the right of the Daily Planet start). The falcon stayed there for at least a few minutes until I climbed off....
by t-bone
Wed Jul 10, 2013 7:21 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunset Strip horror show
Replies: 52
Views: 91784

Re: Sunset Strip horror show

Jesse, are you in fact a licensed guide (as your MeetUp profile suggests)?
by t-bone
Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:37 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Pox wall (Slhanay) area - 4 new climbs by Harry Young
Replies: 7
Views: 7619

Re: Pox wall (Slhanay) area - 4 new climbs by Harry Young

Climbed a couple of these routes yesterday on the way down from Disaster Response. Staple: This is certainly the line of the crag and has to be one of the better pitches of its grade in Squamish. It reminds me of Perspective due to its length, quality and sustained nature but seems a grade easier. P...
by t-bone
Sat Jul 06, 2013 9:30 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall
Replies: 10
Views: 22449

Re: Disaster Response (3 p 5.10) on a new wall

Climbed this route yesterday and agree with the other posters - it is a very high quality crack climb. Awesome job to the developers (Glenn et al) for putting it up and, perhaps more impressively, pounding in a good trail all the way up! The top of the climb puts you in a cool position in between th...
by t-bone
Wed Jul 03, 2013 11:48 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Route by Glenn Woloski - Fog Ducker Spire
Replies: 11
Views: 26700

Re: New Route by Glenn Woloski - Fog Ducker Spire

Climbed this route last Sunday with Dary Hemmons. Overall I think its a very good route with an outstanding final pitch. We climbed it in 5 pitches (as did the party behind us) and my feeling is that this will likely become the norm due to the wandering nature of the climbing. I agree with Bruce's c...
by t-bone
Sat May 11, 2013 5:24 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Marchello Shoe Repair
Replies: 3
Views: 3207

Re: Marchello Shoe Repair

I'd love to hear some reviews..... It'd be great to have somewhere to get a resole in Squamish. I've been using Quick Cobbler in Vancouver ever since Newport Cobbler closed
by t-bone
Tue Apr 16, 2013 7:22 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Climb and Punishment
Replies: 7
Views: 13101

Re: Climb and Punishment

I repeated this climb on Sunday and found it markedly easier as you get a good left foot at the bottom of where the block came out... made it a grade easier imho.
by t-bone
Tue Jan 15, 2013 12:59 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: So...what's the deal with Mercy Street?
Replies: 8
Views: 13232

Re: So...what's the deal with Mercy Street?

its 10b.....basically a clone of the Pillar.
Dries very slow though so you generally have to wait until at least July.
by t-bone
Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:51 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Unheralded Squamish classics
Replies: 8
Views: 8650

Re: Unheralded Squamish classics

I'd agree with Quagmire Crack, and would also add:

Elephantiasis
Supernatural p1
by t-bone
Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:48 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Sun Beam Wall - Empire in the Sun
Replies: 9
Views: 10308

Re: Sun Beam Wall - Empire in the Sun

Climbed this route today....its a good route and I thought the grades on the guide were accurate. Here is the bolt count per pitch (with the gear I placed, as much for my own recollection should i do it again). p1: 10b - 3 bolts (+ optional blue tcu). p2: 10b/c - 5 bolts p3: 10b - 7 bolts + .75 cama...
by t-bone
Wed Oct 03, 2012 7:18 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: I got bit by the Mouse's Tooth: A Lesson in Sketch
Replies: 9
Views: 14364

Re: I got bit by the Mouse's Tooth: A Lesson in Sketch

I think you guys are right....he must have been off route, otherwise there would be mention of the 5.10 hand crack (best pitch of the route IMHO). To re-iterate my previous comment, the only belay that I thought was suspect was the one under the roof - and it really wasn't too bad. As Bruce indicate...
by t-bone
Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:27 am
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Alpine rock in North Joffre creek
Replies: 48
Views: 70534

Re: Alpine rock in North Joffre creek

p5: Moved left into a splitter crack for a few tough moves, then left before the roof to the sketchy hanging gear belay (35m 11a). (NOTE: The topo shows these last two pitches as one but being the 5.10 climbers we are, we broke them up into 2) Note that I made a typo here.....it should read move 'R...
by t-bone
Fri Sep 28, 2012 3:58 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Alpine rock in North Joffre creek
Replies: 48
Views: 70534

Re: Alpine rock in North Joffre creek

We got on this climb a couple of weeks ago - overall it is an excellent route with some truly oustanding pitches on the headwall. Here is how we pitched it out: p1: We took the right-hand (easier) start as per the topo. Steep finger crack (10a) to some 5.9ish terrain past about 5 or 6 bolts. This pi...