Search found 62 matches
- Mon Jun 17, 2013 3:02 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Best Beginner Trad Routes??
- Replies: 13
- Views: 8957
Re: Best Beginner Trad Routes??
FWIW my girlfriend just did her first gear lead a few weeks ago, at sugarloaf. She'd led a fair bit of sport prior and had followed/cleaned a lot of gear too so the objectives for her first lead were for her to get used to choosing which gear to place and for me to check the quality of the placement...
- Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:21 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: New Moderate Cliff - Murrin Park. Valley of the Lost Tribe
- Replies: 17
- Views: 25283
Re: New Moderate Cliff - Murrin Park. Valley of the Lost Tri
We had a lot of fun at this crag yesterday climbing the noodles, dog and squirrel and a couple others. Great texture to the rock and generally well worth a visit for some high-quality mellow cragging.
Thanks for your efforts Chris!
Julian
Thanks for your efforts Chris!
Julian
- Wed May 15, 2013 4:35 pm
- Forum: Alpine
- Topic: Alpine rock in North Joffre creek
- Replies: 48
- Views: 70384
- Tue Apr 23, 2013 10:52 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Been to Copper Cove Recently?
- Replies: 1
- Views: 1688
Re: Been to Copper Cove Recently?
I climbed there once last summer and a fair bit in seasons prior. If I recall correctly, bolt conditions vary from route to route, and the area further left is perhaps better than the first wall you come to…
All that said, I've never taken a big lob at CC and probably wouldn't want to!
Julian
All that said, I've never taken a big lob at CC and probably wouldn't want to!
Julian
- Mon Apr 01, 2013 6:59 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Yorkshire Clipper
- Replies: 5
- Views: 5856
Re: Yorkshire Clipper
Wow! Great news! I've always wanted to climb that route but trad gear is so expensive, not to mention heavy to climb with… The gripper always looked a bit too runout for me too... As a suggestion, would you mind spray-painting some white lines on the good holds, like a perma tick-mark? I think that ...
- Wed Oct 03, 2012 5:04 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Prow Wall, new route, 'UnBearable'
- Replies: 6
- Views: 9125
Re: Prow Wall, new route, 'UnBearable'
Evan, or anyone else who's climbed this - curious how the overall difficulty feels compared to something like Polaris (which is obviously longer but maybe less sustained?).
Looks like a really cool line, and maybe the only hope I have of climbing something on the Prow!
Julian
Looks like a really cool line, and maybe the only hope I have of climbing something on the Prow!
Julian
- Wed Oct 03, 2012 4:37 pm
- Forum: Alpine
- Topic: I got bit by the Mouse's Tooth: A Lesson in Sketch
- Replies: 9
- Views: 14311
Re: I got bit by the Mouse's Tooth: A Lesson in Sketch
aha! I think I figured it out - you were off route! You don't seem to mention the 30 meter hand crack which leads me to believe that you went up when you should have gone right across 5.7 edges to the hand crack. If you do that there is an off route anchor where the crack peters out. If you went up...
- Tue Sep 25, 2012 3:56 pm
- Forum: Climbing Photos and Videos
- Topic: Pic of the day!
- Replies: 221
- Views: 653611
Re: Pic of the day!
hey Steve -
I've never been on "hangover" but always thought it looked like a classic stout 10+ jam crack, which it probably is!
Julian
I've never been on "hangover" but always thought it looked like a classic stout 10+ jam crack, which it probably is!
Julian
- Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:26 pm
- Forum: Climbing Photos and Videos
- Topic: Pic of the day!
- Replies: 221
- Views: 653611
Re: Pic of the day!
Split Beaver
Hangover
Rutabaga P1
Hangover
Rutabaga P1
- Mon Sep 24, 2012 9:05 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads
- Replies: 12
- Views: 11081
Re: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads
Although Krimo looks primo, I have to give a big note of support to Liquid Gold. It offers excellent, varied, and sustained climbing throughout the route; a very worthwhile outing contrary to the above description. Agreed. Worth noting as well that the dreaded chimney pitch is about as friendly as ...
- Tue Sep 18, 2012 1:25 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Exasperator a bit dirty...
- Replies: 15
- Views: 14147
Re: Exasperator a bit dirty...
I really don't think you can rap to the ground where it is with a 70. I rap to the ground with an 80 and just make it to the ground. I'm probably on crack… thought you could stretch it with a 70 to the right. If not, then I don't really have an opinion on the issue (not that I had a strong opinion ...
- Mon Sep 17, 2012 7:19 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Exasperator a bit dirty...
- Replies: 15
- Views: 14147
Re: Exasperator a bit dirty...
My vote would be "no" only because I seem to remember being able to rap from the current top anchors in one go with a 70m if you veer right towards a slightly elevated spot on the path… A nice option when someone has started on the first pitch before you're off the route. Does that sound right? Anyo...
- Mon Sep 17, 2012 5:00 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Arthroscopy and Ghostdancing
- Replies: 4
- Views: 5696
Re: Arthroscopy and Ghostdancing
Had a fun adventure on Ghostdancing this weekend. The route's not particularly clean but it's still very climbable and would probably warrant a retro if it were more on people's radar. The first two pitches are really varied and the cruxes are short. The second pitch probably scares a lot of people ...
- Fri Sep 14, 2012 9:55 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Sullys projects
- Replies: 38
- Views: 26530
Re: Sullys projects
Looks like that "transmission" project is now fully bolted and open. Anyone know the approx grade?
Julian
Julian
- Wed Sep 12, 2012 1:56 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Squamish's stiffest routes...
- Replies: 40
- Views: 129830
Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...
Can't remember the name, but I recently climbed that linkup that starts right of Horrors of Ivan, traverses through that climb and finishes on Mr. O'clock. Seemed harder for me than your average Squamish 10c.