Search found 328 matches

by Anders Ourom
Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:45 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: For the old dogs: Eric Weinstein.
Replies: 4
Views: 2234

Re: For the old dogs: Eric Weinstein.

Yes, I knew Eric Weinstein very well, as did Perry Beckham. I don't think anyone else who knew Eric posts here, although some may lurk. There's not that many of us.

Send me a note at aiourom(at)telus.net, or (604) 228-1798. I'd be happy to re-establish contact with Eric's family.
by Anders Ourom
Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:42 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: A Grim Reaper and additional info question
Replies: 30
Views: 40904

Re: A Grim Reaper and additional info question

I'm fairly sure that someone from Calgary climbed it sometime in the 1980s or early 1990s. (i.e. after sticky rubber.) Certainly he talked about it as though he'd climbed it, and he's a reliable sort. Beyond that, who knows?
by Anders Ourom
Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:36 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Moderate multipitch under 5.9 (with stations)
Replies: 14
Views: 9264

Re: Moderate multipitch under 5.9 (with stations)

There are tree belays on both Sparrow and Over the Rainbow. I've always been a little uncomfortable with convenience bolting, in particular unnecessary bolt belays. (That is, bolt belays that aren't part of a usual rappel route, in places with good natural anchors.) I guess that's no news. Diedre is...
by Anders Ourom
Tue Aug 30, 2011 11:29 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)
Replies: 156
Views: 194012

Re: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)

I agree with all the above - which is to say, that more information and discussion is needed, perhaps quite a lot more. Relating to a few comments: - Climbers (the Access Society) led the opposition to the last proposed gondola, in I think 2004. We won. Particularly if we're united, or nearly so, we...
by Anders Ourom
Fri Jul 08, 2011 10:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)
Replies: 156
Views: 194012

Re: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)

So is it safe for me to come to Squamish and climb on Sunday? :D
by Anders Ourom
Fri Jul 08, 2011 10:54 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 182558

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

I climbed the route on Wednesday evening, and although I generally prefer more adventurous climbing, enjoyed it. There's a place for routes like it at Squamish. Thanks to Jeremy and friends for all the hard work unearthing it. As he observes, a main reason that it is moderate is that it is relativel...
by Anders Ourom
Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:14 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Apron Projects
Replies: 12
Views: 12363

Re: Upper Apron Projects

OK, pretty much finished work, apart perhaps from a bit of brushing. I checked all the bolts on the routes right of Granville Street (except the one to the far right - don't know its name), replaced any that were rusted or spinners, replaced all SMC hangers (~20), patched holes as best I could. Snug...
by Anders Ourom
Sat Jul 02, 2011 10:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)
Replies: 156
Views: 194012

Re: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)

An article about the gondola proposal from the Squamish Chief - the local paper, that is. http://www.squamishchief.com/article/20110701/SQUAMISH0101/306299982/-1/squamish/-8216-sea-to-sky-gondola-8217-concept-launched They still won't give up that hoary old nonsense about the Chief being "the world’...
by Anders Ourom
Thu Jun 30, 2011 7:24 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Apron Projects
Replies: 12
Views: 12363

Re: Upper Apron Projects

Thanks! Thinking about trying to get there on Saturday, depending on drill availability. May need to get a wire brush, but could do that in the AM after buying Norwegian bread at the Golden Crust. Could combine it with a graffiti-removal outing to the Little Smoke Bluffs, too. Crystal ball needed, m...
by Anders Ourom
Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Thirty six years ago today the Royal Hudson....
Replies: 1
Views: 1264

Re: Thirty six years ago today the Royal Hudson....

The photo/poster is of Hamish Fraser, soloing Clean Crack while the RH passes below. Taken by my brother. BC Rail may have tolerated climbers somewhat for the entertainment value we provided for the tourists.
by Anders Ourom
Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:54 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lake of Fire ? WTF??
Replies: 2
Views: 2353

Re: Lake of Fire ? WTF??

I suppose that next someone will do a variation of Rurp Riot, and attempt to rename it. :D
by Anders Ourom
Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:52 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Apron Projects
Replies: 12
Views: 12363

Re: Upper Apron Projects

I've always understood Granville Street (the route) was the mantle at the start of Boomstick Crack, then climbing diagonally right across the slab to the base of the groove/tree line. A bolt has been added part way across the slab - I wonder by whom, or why? IIRC, it was originally graded class 5, o...
by Anders Ourom
Mon Jun 27, 2011 1:42 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Upper Apron Projects
Replies: 12
Views: 12363

Upper Apron Projects

A few weeks ago I did a route on the upper Apron with my friend Anders. (That alone was quite fun - team Anders goes climbing.) Anyway, I noticed that the area was in need of a little TLC, and so spent Sunday working on it. Logistics are a problem, getting about 20 kg of ropes and gear up there, the...
by Anders Ourom
Mon Jun 13, 2011 4:42 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Best new routes / crags in last two years
Replies: 11
Views: 6580

Re: Best new routes / crags in last two years

I kind of prefer "restore" as the verb for tidying up an old but disused climb, with perhaps minor changes to route and context, so as to make it more climbable. "Retro" has connotations which don't really fit.
by Anders Ourom
Wed Jun 01, 2011 5:47 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Slab Alley Restoration Project
Replies: 85
Views: 83379

Re: Slab Alley Restoration Project

Note that Slab Alley is now 50 years old. Not sure of the anniversary date, but I'd guess that it came after the Grand Wall, which was finished in June 1961. Does anyone know why the forum automatically converts the number (in words) "five point eight" into 5.8, adding a smiley face? Is 5.8 some par...