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Finally climbed Milk Road this past weekend (I'd been on Milk Run many years ago). It makes a great outing that is definitely a step up from Angel's Crest but probably not quite as hard as the Grand. p1: much better than the original bush-whack. Was still pretty wet at the bolts. p2: this is a fun p...

Climbed this route today...awesome cleaning job! The climb makes an excellent addition to the Base of the Grand.
p1 was still a bit wet but no big deal and the start of p2 had a few 'flaky' footholds, but they'll clean up in no time.
A #3.5 cam also works well at the start of p2.

Great work....

It's definitely Partners in Crime...you are certainly not the first to take a ride from the crux. Rolf is correct, a more attentive belayer could have pulled in an arm of slack. Not much else you could have done other than place the piece a bit lower. I'm glad the belayer enjoyed your fall so much (...

I climbed Bullethead East today with my wife and agree with all the other posters - it is an outstanding route. The protection was excellent and the grade is certainly not sand-bagged (which is a good thing). P1: This pitch is so-so, its OK as a warm up but not something you'd return to climb on its...

My wife and I visited this area today and after some light rain while we were on Klahanie crack, the skies cleared up for a great afternoon. Great work on Split Decision...it makes an excellent addition to the crag. It was a bit wet in the middle section but completely climbable. If you are still lo...

Hello, I'm sure you are aware but despite the grade similarities, there is a significant difference between Over the Rainbow and the Grim Reaper. OtR is probably the most 'sport-bolted' route on the Apron, whereas the Reaper is at the opposite end of the spectrum. If you are looking for the next rou...

I stopped by this crag for this first time in 10 years today - good job cleaning it up. I climbed Genesis and Geneside and have to agree that there should not be a bolt on Genesis (judging by its continued absence, this appears to be the consensus). The Genesis crux actually protects quite well with...

Anyone been up to the Chehalis recently and have some beta on the road condition?

agree with Bradley...Neat and Cool is definitely not a good first 10a. It has good gear, but you have to be savvy about placing it. Its also fairly pumpy, so you don't have all day to hang out at the overhang.

-p1 of Exasperator is perhaps the best 10a in Squish - and very well protected.
-Seasoned in the Sun is another good 10- with good gear
-Short Sentry at Nightmare 10a

In addition to the routes you mentioned in the Bluffs, you've got:
Nubile Woman
Talking Holds (a little burly)

I didn't know Orphan got upgraded to 5.9...? It was definitely a 5.8+ but not sure about 5.9. Damien, Now that I think about it, I tend to agree with you that p3 of Wiretap is 5.9. I think the p3 overlap (5.9) on St Vitus is harder than anything on Wiretap. I think you could safely call Wiretap eith...

Glad the break-in didn't happen in Squish, but a word of warning: Yesterday in the Bluffs I had my truck broken into (looks like a Slim Jim was used). The thief was probably looking for cash as my glove compartment was ruffled through but he left a BD bullet pack and Patagonia jacket alone. Let's al...

I'd suggest 5.9 for the 1st pitch for a few reasons: -it certainly doesn't seem harder then, say, Penny Lane -i thought p3 (the hand crack) was tougher -i don't think you'll be sandbagging anyone since there is a bolt they can clip if they are feeling over their head. I'd also recommend 5.8 for p5. ...

climbed Wiretap today and despite the rain yesterday it was mostly dry. Great job to those who cleaned this area! We linked pitches 1/2 and 3/4 with minimal difficulty. Linking pitches 1 and 2 is certainly recommended. some random observations: -I thought the first pitch of Wiretap was a soft 10a, e...

thanks for removing these bolts Anders!
I agree that there is absolutely no need for bolts or a rap station at the top of Penny Lane.