Search found 112 matches

by t-bone
Wed Nov 17, 2004 10:07 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Retro/Over bolting
Replies: 11
Views: 5008

Why would you need to add more bolts on "Safe" routes?

Unless you have express written permission from the first ascentionist, NEVER add bolts to existing routes. Anchors are a little greater though....
by t-bone
Thu Jul 22, 2004 8:34 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Grade Creep in new Bourdon guide
Replies: 8
Views: 5125

Popeye ands the Raven is 10c is McLane's guides....I've never seen it given 10d. I totally disagree with giving Angel's Crack 10b - it has great rests all the way (McLane also gives it 10a). As far as I'm concerned it doesn't compare to the other 10bs in Squish (Caboose, Hand Jive, Apron Strings, Ar...
by t-bone
Wed Jul 21, 2004 8:20 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Grade Creep in new Bourdon guide
Replies: 8
Views: 5125

Grade Creep in new Bourdon guide

Was thumbing through the new guide and noticed some grade creep on long-standing routes: Centrefold at 10c? Popeye & the Raven 10d? I find it VERY tough to give the Angel's Crack 10b (is it as tough as the Pillar?) Anyone know why these grades were bumped up? I know the grades for the new routes at ...
by t-bone
Wed Jul 21, 2004 8:12 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Grade Creep in new Bourdon guide
Replies: 0
Views: 1963

Grade Creep in new Bourdon guide

Was thumbing through the new guide and noticed some grade creep on long-standing routes: Centrefold at 10c? Popeye & the Raven 10d? I find it VERY tough to give the Angel's Crack 10b (is it as tough as the Pillar?) Anyone know why these grades were bumped up? I know the grades for the new routes at ...
by t-bone
Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:33 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Chek development
Replies: 16
Views: 10673

I think the point about Chek being a sport area is valid and you are probably correct that if MMD wasn't bolted it would become overgrown. I guess I just have difficulty buying into the first lead argument because I feel climbs shouldn't be over-bolted, even ones specifically designed for first-time...
by t-bone
Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:59 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Chek development
Replies: 16
Views: 10673

Thanks for the responses. I do realize MomD was bolted for beginning leaders but I still have a problem with the over-bolting. There are plenty of beginner sport leads (up to 5.9) in the valley and Charlotte's Web is a pretty good first multi-pitch. The problem with bolting crack lines is that it se...
by t-bone
Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:56 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Chek development
Replies: 16
Views: 10673

Chek development

Good job to those who have spent time on new route development at Chek. Although some of the routes are over-bolted (Master of my Domain!?) the climbs are generally pretty good. The only thing that I don't understand is the labelling of the routes with black marker. Talk about stupid! Maybe that was...