Search found 76 matches

by BlahMatt
Mon Jun 11, 2012 7:45 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 182770

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

Optimally-Primed wrote:BlahMatt,
Please send along my congratulations to your brother and his partner!
Jeremy
Will do.

Here are 2 pictures of the happy couple :)

The proposal (he made a ninja to hold the rings)

Champagne at the base (was chilly en route)
by BlahMatt
Thu Jun 07, 2012 2:17 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Angel's Crest Offwidth Variation
Replies: 1
Views: 1115

Re: Angel's Crest Offwidth Variation

Or I could be smart and use the search functionality to find this thread with all the beta I need: http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... 18&p=13764

Thanks anyway :)

-Matt Hoffmann
by BlahMatt
Thu Jun 07, 2012 12:57 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Angel's Crest Offwidth Variation
Replies: 1
Views: 1115

Angel's Crest Offwidth Variation

Just curious if anyone has climbed the offwidth variation on AC. I've run up the route quite a few times and always sort of looked at it, thought: that looks cool, and continued up the finger crack to the side (and of course never brought up anything bigger than a 3). Any ideas as to what gear it ta...
by BlahMatt
Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:57 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 182770

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

Brought my brother and his girlfriend up Skywalker in the soaking wet + on and off medium showers yesterday so he could propose to her. Went well with one slip on the second pitch. The climb is definitely doable in the rain by a competent leader (not sure what that exactly means but, I managed it :P...
by BlahMatt
Thu Feb 16, 2012 8:41 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compressor
Replies: 25
Views: 17726

Re: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compre

The link shows an Wordpress Error: "You do not have permission to preview drafts."

Looking forward to VIMFF on Saturday!
by BlahMatt
Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:51 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: fun fun fun in the sun ...
Replies: 9
Views: 14538

Re: fun fun fun in the sun ...

I'm sure bingo and fluffy understand... I'll be in the bluffs :D
by BlahMatt
Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:34 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Community Forum changes - What would you like to see?
Replies: 38
Views: 58830

Re: Community Forum changes - What would you like to see?

Another way to open links in new tabs/windows (at least in Chrome, FF and IE is to click the link with the scroll wheel button). Of course this only works on mice that have a scroll wheel that is also a button.
by BlahMatt
Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:41 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Stuck gear
Replies: 7
Views: 5449

Re: Stuck gear

-2 nut tools can often be the key. Can really help if you can apply pressure at 2 different angles -If you've overcammed something in an expanding flake (and you are confident the flake isn't going to come off!), you can place a smaller cam behind it, weight the smaller cam and usually get the too l...
by BlahMatt
Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:24 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Alex Honnold free solos Northern Lights -- wow
Replies: 2
Views: 2107

Re: Alex Honnold free solos Northern Lights -- wow

Only comment I have is "Wow!"... No "official confirmation" but, I wouldn't be at all surprised. Alex seems to be killing it everywhere he goes.
by BlahMatt
Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:00 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Right Wing - bolts are back
Replies: 35
Views: 27726

Re: Right Wing - bolts are back

Headed up the route the weekend before last and had a hell of a time getting up it. Up to the base of the corner went well enough with a little difficulty at the wet streak. Then it really started. Laybacking forever. Taking on gear. Layback. Take. Layback. Take. For 2 full on pitches that absolutel...
by BlahMatt
Mon Aug 22, 2011 7:33 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)
Replies: 26
Views: 57377

Re: Bullethead East (4p, 10c) & Rainy Day Woman (4p, 11b)

Amazing route! Ran up this on Sunday leading p2 and p4. Took the 10c fingers the whole way and every pitch got better and better. Definitely a classic climb. Even the first pitch was fun (kind of like sport climbing on gear :D).
by BlahMatt
Fri Aug 12, 2011 7:46 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Right Wing - bolts are back
Replies: 35
Views: 27726

Re: Right Wing - bolts are back

Planning on heading up there tomorrow! Been psyched to get back on this since we had to bail 2 weeks ago due to wetness (day after it showered at night).

Thanks for the scrub.
by BlahMatt
Thu Aug 11, 2011 8:28 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Preferred Rope Lengths?
Replies: 11
Views: 4444

Re: Preferred Rope Lengths?

My partner and I started using doubles this year and it's been great. Amazing for managing rope drag and the 60m rappels sure speed things up. Though, most of the time they are not necessary as a lot of the routes (especially the classics) have 30m rap options or walk offs.
by BlahMatt
Wed Aug 10, 2011 8:27 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: stairway to heaven
Replies: 11
Views: 7328

Re: stairway to heaven

I climbed it last year with BD nuts 4+ and Blue, Yellow, Orange TCU and Purple and Green C4s.

I don`t remember placing the green C4 but I was happy to have the rest.
by BlahMatt
Tue Aug 09, 2011 7:57 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: angels crest pitch 6
Replies: 6
Views: 3604

Re: angels crest pitch 6

Did it by accident my second time up AC (forgot the topo and went the wrong way). Didn't seem super hard but definitely awkward. 10c/d maybe.