Search found 350 matches

by Optimally-Primed
Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Rambles (4p, 5.8)
Replies: 58
Views: 49417

Rambles (4p, 5.8)

Announcements numbering three. First, I regret to announce my retirement from route development in Squamish. Over the past 5 years, I've established or cleaned about 60 pitches. I've thoroughly enjoyed myself and, like Hevy, feel lucky to have been a part of Squamish's second Golden Era. I hope that...
by Optimally-Primed
Sun Feb 19, 2012 3:36 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Little Smoke Bluffs
Replies: 27
Views: 17872

Re: The Little Smoke Bluffs

I'm behind the cleaning at the south end of Neat and Cool, "The Kids Zone". The SB Committee has been supporting the effort with veg. management on the ground. Matt Parker has been helping me on top. The area will host about 10 easy (5.0 to 5.6) short climbs, all designed for TR, and meant as a fami...
by Optimally-Primed
Thu Jan 12, 2012 10:33 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Magic Brush?
Replies: 8
Views: 5484

Re: Magic Brush?

I two wire brushes... the above-mentioned wire brush for inside cracks. For open face, I use this

Image
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:45 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Diggers
Replies: 6
Views: 5765

Re: The Diggers

Thanks! I might work on a devoted article about Skywalker... we'll see. I do have ropes on a new 3p approach to Diedre, Banana Peel, etc. Should be about 5.8. As it turns out, I'm insanely busy with work this year and haven't found any time to get up there in over a month. Is anyone interested in ge...
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:01 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The Diggers
Replies: 6
Views: 5765

The Diggers

New article out in Gripped on 5 local route-digging heros. http://gripped.com/2011/11/sections/articles/the-diggers/ Why does the Digger dig? Perhaps Diggers get something from the process, like respite from other worries. “You get pissed off with life and you swing the mattock that much harder,” co...
by Optimally-Primed
Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:08 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Best Practices Guide
Replies: 2
Views: 2663

Best Practices Guide

BC Parks, in conjunction with a climbing advisory group, is developing a Best Practices Guide for Rock Climbing Route Development for Stawamus Chief Park, Shannon Falls Park, and Murrin Park. At this stage in the process you have an opportunity to provide information, express your opinion and sugges...
by Optimally-Primed
Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:58 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face
Replies: 11
Views: 17717

Re: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face

Dru, That's assuming that we followed the line of least resistance... which is not the case. The line of least resistance is right of the toe. We started way left of the toe, where it's cleaner but harder. To get to our start, we dropped way down to the glacier on the left and started under the glac...
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Sep 27, 2011 8:59 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Clean Corner
Replies: 8
Views: 4992

Re: Clean Corner

Who am I to say...

But it is Frimer, not Frimmer. And it is Dr., not Mr. Not that I care. Call me Jeremy.
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:04 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Clean Corner
Replies: 8
Views: 4992

Re: Clean Corner

First off, I really hope that all the work I've done for climbers in Squamish hasn't made me infamous. What did I do to deserve that?

Second, a tidbit from the past. The late, great Guy Edwards once called Clean Corner the "realest 5.8 in Squamish"... or something like that.
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Sep 27, 2011 12:33 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face
Replies: 11
Views: 17717

Re: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face

based on Texplorer's revision to Dru's topo, our routes only crossed... had minimal ground in common.

Image
So we offer the name "Beached Az" (5.9)
FA Justin Barnes, Kat Siepmann, and Jeremy Frimer, Sept 2011.
by Optimally-Primed
Mon Sep 26, 2011 11:10 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 182553

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

After this rain? I'm guessing it'll take 5 dry days. It might be over till ice climbing season...
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Sep 20, 2011 5:48 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Just Jackin at Lumberland
Replies: 3
Views: 3348

Just Jackin at Lumberland

Hevy Duty carjacking a boulder off Lumberland.
vimeo video

by Optimally-Primed
Thu Sep 15, 2011 1:49 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 182553

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

I wondered about the possibility of this when I first encountered the Shannon Falls Pools. Stu Smith had the vision and the skills... he walked a highline over Shannon Falls on Aug 26, 2011. http://jeremyfrimer.com/Photos_files/Media/Screen%20shot%202011-09-15%20at%202.37.49%20PM/Screen%20shot%20201...
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:32 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 112
Views: 186732

Re: Wire Tap

In light of the trouble finding the last rap station, I modified the topo to hopefully clear that up. The key is to rap to the RIGHT of the tree at the bottom. The station is just out of view on an excellent ledge. Sorry for the confusion folks.

topo
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:29 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 182553

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

Pretty amazing to see the reaction to this climb. I didn't see it coming. But couldn't be happier about how y'all have received the climb.

The reaction has been so good that I'm finding it hard to pick up the scrub brush again. From here, it could only be downhill...

Quit while I'm ahead?