SquamishClimbing.com

Thank you Brendan! Apparently my fingers are seizing up in the lovely cold weather. Not sure how an "n" became a "d" though - finger dyslexia?

Glenn Woodsworth once told me that the Chief and surrounding cliffs are gradodiorite. Later the story changed, and apparently we're now just supposed to call it granite. Some sort of theological dispute amongst geologists, apparently. Granite seems divisible into a variety of sub-species. Which one ...

Well, it's really Jeremy's idea, and his call. He's well aware of the issues, and isn't the sort of person to place "convenience" bolts. He's also planning to get the route cleaned up, and figure out what makes most sense, before doing anything. The wet section, even if completely dry and clean, loo...

I was Jeremy's accomplice on Sunday, as we strung a spider's web down Right Wing. Hard and awkward work. The main corner should provide a long lead offering all kinds of jamming. It may be necessary to move the bolt belay below the last "beak" pitch down a few metres, so that ropes reach from the tr...

Good to have a debate on this, and take some time before making any decision.

The bolts on Pipeline were placed for a belay - ropes weren't long enough in those days to do it as one pitch.

Anders

You should ask Mike Hengeveld about Pipeline - he's done it, twice. (His website is the one referred to earlier in the thread.) The route has something of a history and reputation. I've never done it. In 1965, Glenn Woodsworth, Hamish Mutch and Mavis McCuaig did the first ascent of the left side of ...

And here I thought this thread was about the fine, lost art of the hip belay - standing or sitting. Which, like body and carabiner brake rappels, is still worth learning. Allows the climb/rappel to go on, even if you've lost or forgotten your device. Guaranteed low impact, and perhaps even dynamic. ...

Climbing legend John Bachar, his partner Steve Karafa, and John's friend Anastasia Frangos were involved in a serious accident in eastern Nevada on August 13th. They had been attending the Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City, and were on their way home. John, Steve and Dario Piana are part...

This accident was reported on the front page of the Squamish Chief last Friday. It is at www.squamishchief.com, though the webpage doesn't seem quite functional. The climber who was injured was Jim Sinclair, who is 73 and has been climbing at Squamish since the late 1950s. He was climbing with Tony ...

B.C. Parks informs us that the peregrine falcons are nesting in the vicinity of Millenium Falcon as usual. The climbing closure of this area of the Stawamus Chief will be through the end of July. All routes from Negro Lesbian to Freeway are closed, from four pitches above the ground to the top. Clos...

A pair of ravens is nesting on Petrifying Wall, very near the belay anchors for Pleasant Pheasant. B.C. Parks has asked the Access Society to publicize the following information. Attention Climbers There is an occupied raven's nest above Pleasant Pheasant on Petrifying Wall. Please avoid climbing th...

Daryl Hatten's daughter Janelle wants to contact friends of her father, and learn more about him. She lives in Saskatchewan, and hasn't had any contact with Daryl since she was two. The easiest way to learn more is to see a posting on the Supertopos website - http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread...

Lois Nordstrom died as a result of injuries from a fall from a route at the Crest at the Conroy Creek climbing area ('Chek') on Sunday May 14th. She was an avid and experienced climber and mountaineer. Lois' family has asked that information about the service for her be forwarded. It will be on Tues...