Search found 396 matches
- Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:08 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Squamish's stiffest routes...
- Replies: 40
- Views: 130123
Re: Squamish's stiffest routes...
Correct me if I'm wrong but hasn't Glenn Payan's slab route Tools of Moss Destruction at Fern Gully gotten significantly harder from the original 11b as the tiny holds wore away from excessive toproping? Boogie Till You Puke was butch back when (pre-2005 guidebook) it was supposed to be 10c. But I k...
- Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:52 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
- Replies: 22
- Views: 13430
Re: Just Can't Do It needs some glue
There is a route across the highway at the Sport Temple called Just Glue It and another called Glueteous Maximus. Why do you suppose they are called that?MorganM wrote:I sure hope it's not acceptable around here.Amuerte wrote:This hold could easily be glued if that type of thing is acceptable around here.
- Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:51 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads
- Replies: 12
- Views: 11147
Re: Krimo Gold a new route in the Bulletheads
It's worth noting that the first few wide pitches of Liquid Gold were actually originally climbed as a route in their own right called Half Moon Chimney, previous to Liquid Gold being done. Details are in the old Campbell guide.
- Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:43 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor
- Replies: 15
- Views: 14396
Re: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor
the ushba cutting the rope test i believe was done with a factor 2 dynamic drop on a static rope with weights. if you have a factor 2 on a second falling, you have exceptionally serious issues IMO. If you have a foot or two of slack in the system, such as when simuling at different speeds, and the ...
- Mon Sep 03, 2012 11:39 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Cypress new climbs.
- Replies: 22
- Views: 36040
Re: Cypress new climbs.
Those stainless steel permadraws might be a good idea, because once a maillon gets a certain degree of rusty it can be almost impossible to unscrew when you try and replace.
- Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:28 am
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Cypress new climbs.
- Replies: 22
- Views: 36040
Re: Cypress new climbs.
Might be worthwhile making sure those permadraws meet sea-cliff standards. The wet season gets pretty wet there even if the water is not salty.
- Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:24 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor
- Replies: 15
- Views: 14396
Re: Simul Climbing Fall Inhibitor
gnarnaphobe wrote:Seems like a hassle. Just put the strongest climber on the dull end and don't fall.
+1. And don't get any slack in the rope if you do mess around with the Ushba or Tiblock on the rope because if you fall dynamically either one of those will sever the rope at around 5kn.
- Thu Aug 30, 2012 7:09 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Soloing Uncle Ben's with Merci Me to start
- Replies: 26
- Views: 17734
Re: Soloing Uncle Ben's with Merci Me to start
If you have a wife and buddy to help carry loads, get one of them to give you a belay. Free climb the first two pitches and fix. Takes about 15 minutes since there's very little pro fiddling to slow you down. A couple clips and you're done. Then you can haul, jug and solo-aid the aid parts at your l...
- Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:59 am
- Forum: Climbing Photos and Videos
- Topic: Pic of the day!
- Replies: 221
- Views: 657560
Re: Pic of the day!
Oh ffs you're right and I didn't recognize it even though i was there when it was taken. Ow.nicke wrote:Jesse's photo looks like the last pitch of Powaqqatsi?
- Wed Aug 29, 2012 7:35 am
- Forum: Vancouver to Hope
- Topic: Chehalis information?
- Replies: 4
- Views: 16501
- Mon Aug 27, 2012 7:48 pm
- Forum: Climbing Photos and Videos
- Topic: Pic of the day!
- Replies: 221
- Views: 657560
Re: Pic of the day!
Jesse is that Empire of the Sun then? It is in the Select so not fully obscure, if so.
- Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:38 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
- Replies: 83
- Views: 235746
Re: Is Squamish Soft?
Banana Peel may have a mandatory 20m runout, actually if you do one variation it has a 50m runout, but it's hard to see with sticky rubber exactly how you would fall off either, so the runout distance is moot. In 22 years of climbing in Squamish I don't think I have ever heard of a big fall on Banan...
- Thu Aug 23, 2012 3:09 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
- Replies: 83
- Views: 235746
Re: Is Squamish Soft?
A bolt plus a hanger costs like $6. That's half a six pack of beer you could buy. Less bolts placed means more beer drunk. Pretty important point when you're a dirtbag new router. I mean when I was actively doing new climbs at Squamish I had a monthly budget of $30 at one point.
- Wed Aug 22, 2012 1:33 pm
- Forum: Lost & Found
- Topic: Found- knife in Paradise Valley boulders
- Replies: 1
- Views: 1350
Re: Found- knife in Paradise Valley boulders
Was it a butter knife with a lot of scorching on the blade and traces of resin?
Not that I lost one like that, but more like that's what I'd expect from the Paradise Valley boulders.
Not that I lost one like that, but more like that's what I'd expect from the Paradise Valley boulders.
- Wed Aug 22, 2012 8:28 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Routes on Anvil Island?
- Replies: 3
- Views: 2822
Re: Routes on Anvil Island?
Nothing recorded, but there's quite a bit of unrecorded seacliff climbing/DWS you can do from a landing on one of the beaches and/or a canoe you anchor to the base of the crag with cams in a crack. In the latter case if roped climbing instead of DWS watch out for changes in the tide. A friend was le...