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More seriously, there is no need to belay at the second belay of Rock On. It is easy to link or simul all the way to the 3rd belay, especially with 70m ropes. So no need to stop and belay in whiz, when you can choose to just whiz on by.

Guy Edwards left a corn-studded coiler at one of the belays of Teetering on the Brink once.
You got off easy.

Pocket glacier slid last week, probably sometime on Friday as reports have it there Thursday and gone Saturday morning.

Bare rock to the bypass start with some little remnant chunks still lurking above near the east face

The original post reminds me of the line "You can leave your mouth closed and be thought an idiot or open it and remove all doubt."

Missed getting video of most of the ice falling but did catch this one
http://www.flickr.com/photos/druclimb/9349423470/

I wouldn't want to predict that Dave. Some years it goes and some years it doesn't.

jmace and I did the Illusion Peaks traverse yesterday, giving us a bit of a ringside seat to the Slesse glaciers and icefalls. Most ice falls between about 9 AM and 4 PM. Expect at least one an hour but they were sometimes as close together as 10-15 minutes. The buttress toe approach is getting stra...

Once you pull over onto the flake it's pretty much no hands traversing
Pulling over onto the flake is easier the further right you start

Climbed this with Jesse M, Doug W and Henrik H on the long weekend. 14 years almost to the day after the FA. Here are some observations you might be interested in if you are thinking about doing this route because you've seen it in Alpine Select. Thoughts: New logging roads speed the approach. Under...

Those are on Black September, a 10a/b between Duck a L"orange and Contact Zone that isn't in Alpine Select.

Those two dudes in the Calc Crack pic are super taped up. Must be Americans.

Harrison Bluffs info: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/harrison-bluffs-harrison-hot-springs-bc/105994963 You can buy the old guidebook written by Alex Howden that includes descriptions for routes on Falcon Crest and the East Wall at Mt Waddington Outdoors in Chilliwack. But beware because Alex uses ...

I'm planning to practice aid climbing on Diedre. I need to get my slab hauling techniques dialed.

Have spent 20-odd years walking right by the 2nd Ave stuff because the crag was so broken and rambling it wasn't inspiring enough to scrub. Sugarloaf suffers from being busy, but the routes are some of the best easy trad around - solid, well-protected, wide variety of gear to place. Great place to l...