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I suggest you get a hold of the BC parks liasson. I'd be surprised if whatever it is (if it is true at all) will not be totally removed before they are done. Worth checking on though, just to make sure the system isn't going sideways. BC Parks has guidelines for filming permits which generally means...

Rolf, it was a totally normal, middle of life span kernmantle rope. Diameter might have contributed, but my dryland tests indicated little difference between the 9 mm and a 10.2 mm. I have since heard of one very similar event, a "weak" spring was noted yet it "tested" ok so it was used, then it fai...

Thanks for that volume of info Bearbreeder, great stuff.

I've seen a prussik burn through in less than two feet of sliding, which is highly likely unless you are using tandem ( dual) prussiks, perfectly set up.

Stay in BC and Alberta. Everything south of the 49th parallel will be too hot, especially St george!

EUREKA! I think i have found the major factor contributing to the my device failure. Upon comparing my device to an identical unit, side by side, it appears the "cam activation spring" on my unit is notably weaker than the other. When the unit is oriented just so, it will slide down a vertical rope,...

Regarding "cut ropes"...... I think you are refering to rope grabs cutting the rope, in which case I agree with you, very little accounting of this happening to my knowlege. However, everyone should be aware that edges or even a tiny crystal can and often does damage rope, sometimes to failure. Ther...

I was on Redtail so it's probably me. As they suggest, a bit of significant detail is incorrect although the general commentary about back ups is on the money. Partly my intention here is to encourage accurate ( first hand ) accounts of failure, as opposed to gossip mill / through the grape vine gue...

That recent incident in skaha you describe sounds suspiciously like my little splat. If that is the case, there was no backup knot other than the rope coils on the ground, in other words I grounded out full force. Petzl certainly seems like the best source for information on reccomended usage. Alway...

A few locals have already heard I had a "ushba style" ( Grandwall brand, aluminum) rope grab fail on me on a fixed rope while solo freeclimbing. I decked from fifty feet, could easily have died or worse but basically walked away with a fractured vertebrae with no deficits. I know this type of rope g...

good idea Eric and a big thank you to Peter Legerre for all the community access and contribution over the years.

bk

The rubble pile half way up worlds Toughest Milkman produced about 2 tonnes of fire works with a little wiggle of the pry bar today.... Damn near took out a guy smoking dope down in the parking lot too! The block on Mr oclock dosn't seem to want to go however, despite the persistent flex. It gets th...

There is a suspect expanding block on Mr O'clock ( 2nd crux, RP crack) and The rubble on milkman itself could use a good testing, seeing as the last time anyone tried prying anything there was over twenty years ago.

I'd like to recommend paul Cordy's new route on the southwest pillar of Mt Dione. It provides ten pitches of killer crack climbing and cool knife edge pinacle traversing topping out on a primo summit. Like much of the western aspects of Tantalus and Dione, the stone quality is excellent granite litt...

why wait til November? September is prime hold gluing season

The crux is finding the log crossing the creek. I'm not sure what the current beta on where the log is these days. Best to scout it out the day before As a descent after your climb, expect 45 degree snow in the upper Herdman, possibly hard enough to make rappelling a good idea. Below that the whole ...