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Anders Ourom wrote:The original descent trail was to the south, then back around under the powerlines and along the base. It's probably now overgrown, if not covered in slash.

I tried it last year as it was my first time at the Papoose and both my guidebooks pointed me South. It's a sh*t show down there.

You could just tell us where it is. Maybe throw up a photo or two to inspire route setters.

If being secretive isn't your intention then why all the song and dance?

Not a dumb question at all. If it's sunny some things dry out very quickly. You may get a bit of dampness in the cracks sometimes, but often it can be great. Advice: Stay in the sun. It'll be unpleasantly cold if you don't. Start late, give the rock a chance to warm up. Smoke Bluffs are the name of ...

I was wondering about this too. I thought the crux was the thin bit a few meters below the bolt. Did part of the rock at the crack come off?

I haven't seen the trees in question, but I'm always in the favour of clearing trees to maximize light and wind near crags. Our province is thick with trees and I've never been convinced climbers have a significant effect on them.

Good to hear that the anchor still feels like it's in a good spot. While up there we were contemplating moving, (or adding) the top anchor to the very top of that hand crack, just before it meets Peasant's Route. It would still be a sub-30m rap back to the top of the first pitch, and you'd get almo...

Where you guys in the tie dye shirts? We had doubles and triples 0.5 to .75 and I had hardly anything left by the time I lunged for the platform :P Having said that I was placing a lot of gear, something I tend to due when I am getting pumped, and that pitch just doesn't let up! Such a great pitch,...

Yeah, got on it Saturday and was planning on rapping off that tat, then shook my head and left a biner. Rings would be nice, I just don't have the know-how. And yeah, machete recommended for the approach and beginning. Not joking. That trail is disappearing and you have to scramble through prickle b...

Yeah, saw broken glass when I came down from Angel's Crest on the 6th. So lame. If you ever see someone pulling this sh*t beat them with a #4.

Good point about leaving Jackpots though, I always do without really thinking about it.

Climbed it today. No where near linking the pitches.

Seriously. That pitch is fucked up.

Crack: Exasperator

Sport: No Name Road

I don't have a series of old guidebooks, but I've been told that one can track fairly linear grade-creep from one edition to the next. I think grades should be a dynamic quantity that should adjust as consensus builds, but it seems nobody wants to downgrade the soft, just upgrade the stiff. So what ...

Yep.

I'd love to hear Marc Bourdon and Kevin McClane's thoughts on grade creep. Too bad they never post here.

I sorted out partners for this week but I have a similar problem for next week. Contact me if you need a partner for Wednesday or Thursday next week.

I've got the week off and all my partners are working or out of town. I'd like to tick Jungle Warfare or Birds of Prey, but could be convinced to try other 5.10-/5.10 routes too. I can lead all pitches, but happy to swap leads if you want to share. If you can lead harder I'd be happy to hold the rop...