SquamishClimbing.com

FWIW my girlfriend just did her first gear lead a few weeks ago, at sugarloaf. She'd led a fair bit of sport prior and had followed/cleaned a lot of gear too so the objectives for her first lead were for her to get used to choosing which gear to place and for me to check the quality of the placement...

We had a lot of fun at this crag yesterday climbing the noodles, dog and squirrel and a couple others. Great texture to the rock and generally well worth a visit for some high-quality mellow cragging.

Thanks for your efforts Chris!

Julian

A few threads down: http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... =21&t=4184

I climbed there once last summer and a fair bit in seasons prior. If I recall correctly, bolt conditions vary from route to route, and the area further left is perhaps better than the first wall you come to…

All that said, I've never taken a big lob at CC and probably wouldn't want to!

Julian

Wow! Great news! I've always wanted to climb that route but trad gear is so expensive, not to mention heavy to climb with… The gripper always looked a bit too runout for me too... As a suggestion, would you mind spray-painting some white lines on the good holds, like a perma tick-mark? I think that ...

Evan, or anyone else who's climbed this - curious how the overall difficulty feels compared to something like Polaris (which is obviously longer but maybe less sustained?).

Looks like a really cool line, and maybe the only hope I have of climbing something on the Prow!

Julian

aha! I think I figured it out - you were off route! You don't seem to mention the 30 meter hand crack which leads me to believe that you went up when you should have gone right across 5.7 edges to the hand crack. If you do that there is an off route anchor where the crack peters out. If you went up...

hey Steve -

I've never been on "hangover" but always thought it looked like a classic stout 10+ jam crack, which it probably is!

Julian

Split Beaver
Hangover
Rutabaga P1

Although Krimo looks primo, I have to give a big note of support to Liquid Gold. It offers excellent, varied, and sustained climbing throughout the route; a very worthwhile outing contrary to the above description. Agreed. Worth noting as well that the dreaded chimney pitch is about as friendly as ...

I really don't think you can rap to the ground where it is with a 70. I rap to the ground with an 80 and just make it to the ground. I'm probably on crack… thought you could stretch it with a 70 to the right. If not, then I don't really have an opinion on the issue (not that I had a strong opinion ...

My vote would be "no" only because I seem to remember being able to rap from the current top anchors in one go with a 70m if you veer right towards a slightly elevated spot on the path… A nice option when someone has started on the first pitch before you're off the route. Does that sound right? Anyo...

Had a fun adventure on Ghostdancing this weekend. The route's not particularly clean but it's still very climbable and would probably warrant a retro if it were more on people's radar. The first two pitches are really varied and the cruxes are short. The second pitch probably scares a lot of people ...

Looks like that "transmission" project is now fully bolted and open. Anyone know the approx grade?

Julian

Can't remember the name, but I recently climbed that linkup that starts right of Horrors of Ivan, traverses through that climb and finishes on Mr. O'clock. Seemed harder for me than your average Squamish 10c.