SquamishClimbing.com

Went for a quick burn up to this crag yesterday after work. -There is going to have to be alot of traffic to keep these routes clean and/or some tree branch pruning on the crag side. Ask Payan/Thompson how they chooped off those branches 100' high at Among the firs... Isn't this a park? Before anyb...

> 3. The future of these climbs remains uncertain to me. As you will see in the Needs a PDF topo so more know about them, there aren't many moderates so close to murrin lake. Maybe I'll take a shot in my (non existent) spare time. > 5. "A Bachelor's Life Memorial Arete". I think that this is an exce...

It depends on the type of bolt. Torque bolts used in many US climbing areas have a rated torque to apply and should not be overtightened; for the nuts on the wedge/cone bolts like commonly used around Squamish and sold at MEC, they can be reefed as tight as possible with a wrench. If just hand tigh...

Question for route setters, how tight should the nuts on bolts be? If I had a wrench, should they be finger-tight plus a quarter turn? Can you terminally weaken a bolt by overtightening? Nuts are loose pretty often, and some recent experiences have made me think they should be tightened more than ju...

jessicers wrote: I'm shattered, and can see myself moving on, but need to try to get this camera back in my life. I just returned from a bouldering trip to Utah and all my pics were still on the camera.

Ouch, jess, that really sucks, at least you still have the memories of climbing while I was working!

The already exsisting buildings they inherited/decided to build in had limited ceilings. I got the rather strong impession (from the plans posted at the old cliffhangers, and from staff members) that they had the whole thing built from scratch, this is the first I heard the building was pre-existin...

does anybody know how the Vancouver cliffhangers managed to get built for the purpose of climbing, but with only 40 foot walls? ...and people said it couldn't be done. It's a miracle of modern technology really. But seriously, what do you mean? 8) Longer is better (when it comes to gym walls). Some...

[quote="Charlie"]Probably no different than what happened at Cliffhanger to make them move the auto belayers to be within view of the front desk. People are dumb and don't follow instructions.[/quote] It'd be nice to know the details of both accidents, whether it really was somebody forgetting to cl...

[quote="mcgarnickle"]I always find it really strange how falcons get all these special privileges, like cliffs closed just for them. What exactly makes them so special? I never heard of cliffs closed on account of crows or ravens, they're birds no less than falcons, so why?[/quote] Some routes on Pe...

Note - The drawing shows the apprentice ending on the left, and easy torture on the right. The text describes the opposite. The text is correct, I assume, because the left hand route is way harder than 11a.

Brendan wrote:Dru, what do you mean by the 'sliding-X'?

http://www.spadout.com/wiki/index.php/C ... _Sliding_X

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/for ... 33#1309933

just wondering how you people tie yourselves in to the anchors AND belay your second up to you? Seems there's a bazillion ways, eh? All subtly different. I mostly do sport, so there are bolt anchors. I have the fast way, which is a daisy chain into each bolt, a quickdraw off one bolt, and I belay f...

The bottom line is that the bolt has been replaced with a brand new one, and I moved the placement higher so the "runout" is 1 1/2 ft less now. Hey, so I guess this explains why the route is described as "run-out" in Squamish Select, when you have your foot just a bit higher than the bolt, somethin...

Dru wrote:There are a couple of other, worthwhile climbs in that canyon btw.

I think you see my plan. Star Chek is the carrot with which I entice a belayer. Once we're already up there...

what do you think? Rug Munchers - 5.11b Rug Munchers is hard to grade because it doesn't have a single move harder than a typical crux on an 11-, but it has a lot of them with no rests in between, making it sustained and sequency, but easy to do with 4 takes... Thence the popularity as a TR. Despit...