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Hi Calamity, A few years back I fixed up the route you mentioned plus the one to the left, replaced a few bolts, anchors, holds and installed a few ropes for winter dry tooling sessions. After using it during the winter and it seeing regular use by many I returned in the spring to clean everything a...

New Route on Toxic Lichen Wall:
"Full House" 5.12a/b, 18m, 6 Bolts

Between "Mutation" and "Joe Dirt"

Thanks
Eric

I have added a direct start to "Second Nature" at Pet wall, 4 bolts to the left of "The Coffin/Project Grizzly" start. The bolts do not affect the traditional start of those routes. The direct is mid-5.11 to a hands free rest into "Second nature" so its does not affect the overall grade of 12d. I al...

Take "Second Nature" off the list, I retro bolted it today.

Anchor and bolts on "Second Nature" at Pet Wall.

Thanks
Eric

Hi Rolfr, I'm a little surprised by your comments. Many people have spoken to Robin about his methodology. Many of his practices are quite clearly listed in your link as bad. (Chain links on bolt heads, incorrect glue, incorrect spacing of u bolts etc) as well as general climbing etiquette including...

Hi Kris, I agree, the safety factors on the Strong tie is a multiple of 4, Hilti has reduction ratio of 0.65. and I agree with your reasons why, random quality, covering their asses etc This reduction of ratings makes finding a true comparison difficult, but the ASCA is right in that as brands chang...

Hi Guys, I recently ordered bolts at Triton in Squamish and specified, 3/8 by 3" SS wedge bolts but did not specify from which supplier. When I went to pick up the order they were manufactured by Simpson Strong Tie. I decided to check their strength rating before purchasing, the Triton staff told me...

This is footage of a Barley 5.10 climbing route, recently cleaned and open to the public. The hold was chalky from people using it and without the hold the route becomes 5.11. The block was exactly the way I found it and directly above the belayer; I aided past and cleaned it from above with my bela...

New Route at Chek Canyon "The Lemon Smuggler"- 5.12d - Sport FA - Eric Hughes/Jamie Finlayson Fully bolted sport line between Sacrilege and Ill Communication on Toxic Lichen Wall Grade needs confirmation so please climb it and let me know. Nice 5.10 climbing into consecutive boulder problems and sta...

I have a 60m 8.5mm mammut rope that i use for simul climbing, glacier stuff etc I cut it in half this year and the other side is in great condition, no falls. I know it's a little skinnier and shorter than you want but, thought I'd offer. Or I have an old lead line you can have (loads of falls) 9.5m...

Jesse, I did a quick lap of this route this morning to see what all the fuss is about. Firstly the name calling and insults are unnecessary. Secondly the technical issues you bring up.. 1) The bolt off the belay after pitch one can be clipped easily, step on the good hold, grab the two under clings,...

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There is a ton of hard cracks....start with these!!!
The North Star, Cobra, Adder, 69, Gunslinger, Zombie Roof, Teddy Bears Picnic, My little pony, Gravity Bong, Sugar Daddy (Not a crack but will make you sweat!), The Shadow, Lake of Fire etc....if you finish all these you should get free shoes!

Hi Brownie,
Can you tell me which line this is, or a description to find it.

Thanks
Eric