Search found 350 matches

by Optimally-Primed
Mon Sep 12, 2011 11:20 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face
Replies: 11
Views: 17532

Re: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face

The big questions: 1. is it chossy? No. Quite solid, really. 2. protectable? Once in a while, sure. 3. prone to rockfall? Nope. The cracks are pretty filled with grass... but the rock faces themselves are ultra clean and featured. What could be really fun is a route where bolted lines bust up the fe...
by Optimally-Primed
Mon Sep 12, 2011 11:45 am
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face
Replies: 11
Views: 17532

Re: Parkes Wall - 500m alpine granite face

Dru, is this Bamboozled Buttress?
Image

If so, I can confirm that it grassy. Critical move was pushing a finger into the grass for a mono. Some redeeming moments however.
by Optimally-Primed
Mon Sep 12, 2011 9:15 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c
Replies: 7
Views: 5703

Re: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

So going by the Campbell guide topo it seems that the first 5.9 pitch of this route is the same corner climbed by Hangup? (Cousins/Sinclair 1972, FFA Campbell/Milward 1984)
more or less, yes (as noted on the topo). I believe that Hangup exits left at about 2/3 height on P1.
by Optimally-Primed
Fri Sep 09, 2011 6:20 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Right Wing - bolts are back
Replies: 35
Views: 26912

Re: Right Wing - bolts are back

Glad to hear of all the adventures on the route. The 10c face pitch is 10c once you figure out how to do the crux. Check out the latest topo... I spray all the beta.
J
by Optimally-Primed
Thu Sep 08, 2011 6:38 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 177499

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

An update on the grades survey I put up. The most debated grade is for pitch 2 (The Flume). Out of 12 votes, 1 says 5.7, 7 say 5.8, and 4 say 5.9. So 5.8 still seems right. Consensus for the Skywalker Traverse (pitch 4) is 5.4 (over 75% voted that way). Heard a rumour that a party this weekend climb...
by Optimally-Primed
Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:38 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: loose rocks at top of penny
Replies: 4
Views: 3569

Re: loose rocks at top of penny

What about a small retaining wall?
by Optimally-Primed
Thu Sep 01, 2011 10:13 pm
Forum: Alpine
Topic: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?
Replies: 21
Views: 23370

Re: Slesse: bypass glacier condition ?

Wow. That looks horrendous!
by Optimally-Primed
Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:25 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Right Wing - bolts are back
Replies: 35
Views: 26912

Re: Right Wing - bolts are back

Interesting discussion. I am not inclined to respond to criticism or voice my opinions over the forum. If you (a) have climbed Right Wing, and (b) really want to discuss the bolts, then let's meet up for a coffee at the Zeph. I will however, fill in factual information that has been missing here. To...
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:48 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Moderate multipitch under 5.9 (with stations)
Replies: 14
Views: 9089

Re: Moderate multipitch under 5.9 (with stations)

The demography of Squamish climbing is shifting toward less experienced climbers (fresh out of the gym). This has to be the fastest growing user group. They feel prepared for moderate climbs of moderate length and they prefer bolted belays. For this reason, I suggest that the largest "demand" in Squ...
by Optimally-Primed
Tue Aug 30, 2011 5:58 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Right Wing - bolts are back
Replies: 35
Views: 26912

Re: Right Wing - bolts are back

Ah, another satisfied customer! You guys are great! Really swell.
by Optimally-Primed
Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:31 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Nice TR of Europa
Replies: 10
Views: 7489

Re: Nice TR of Europa

Putting the finishing touches on Flex Capacitor, I watched a party bail off Crap Crags. On each rappel, they yelled "rock!" several times. I lost count of how many... While climbing at Arrowroot the other day (a party on pitch 2 of Crap Crags), my partner was hit by a cell-phone sized rock in the he...
by Optimally-Primed
Sat Aug 27, 2011 9:36 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c
Replies: 7
Views: 5703

Flex Capacitor, 2p, 5.9, 10c

Announcing a new 2p crack adventure at the base of the Grand Wall: Flex Capacitor. Yes indeed, you'll need 1.21 Jigawatts for this one. If you don't know what I'm talking about, go back and watch the best movie of all time, Back to the Future. Pitch 1 is a long finger-locking corner (5.9). Pitch 2 i...
by Optimally-Primed
Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:01 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 177499

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

Great to hear of all the satisfied customers, bearbreeder. Yesterday, when going up to remove the loose block, I figured it would be empty. After all, Diedre was a waterfall. I figured Skywalker would be wet too. But alas, a party at every pitch. And indeed, Skywalker was wet in some of the cracks. ...
by Optimally-Primed
Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 112
Views: 180766

Re: Wire Tap

Wire Crack is awesome! A 5-star pitch! You can't see it until you're at the belay below it. Then finally, you look up at this perfect crack splitting the steep wall above. It's an amazing situation. The climbing reminds a bit of "the pitch" on Sunblessed (albeit not as long). For a good 20m it's ste...