Search found 52 matches

by pbeckham
Wed Jun 19, 2013 9:05 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Heli evac off north walls
Replies: 25
Views: 35529

Re: Heli evac off north walls

Stas,

Hope your ankle heals up well.
Take care.

PB
by pbeckham
Tue Jun 18, 2013 8:45 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Heli evac off north walls
Replies: 25
Views: 35529

Re: Heli evac off north walls

An interesting mix of first and second hand opinion and pure conjecture from the bleachers. According to jesse james I made a bad call up there and collectively, we unnecessarily impeded some climbers, exposed them to undue hazards and generally effected a dangerous rescue. Pretty appalling. For the...
by pbeckham
Tue Jun 18, 2013 10:23 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Heli evac off north walls
Replies: 25
Views: 35529

Re: Heli evac off north walls

jeffski,

Actually, the party in trouble did lend their rope to the others.
I was also under the impression that the two in trouble were part of a larger party of at least four.

PB
by pbeckham
Mon Jun 17, 2013 2:54 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Heli evac off north walls
Replies: 25
Views: 35529

Re: Heli evac off north walls

For the record, I was one of the rescuers long lined in to help the injured climber. He was one of about six climbers at the belay ledge and was located at the base of the pitch he fell off of. His injury was ghastly to behold, potentially limb threatening and moving him any more than necessary, a c...
by pbeckham
Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:24 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Handjammies are cheating!
Replies: 11
Views: 12813

Re: Handjammies are cheating!

I'm think if we can wear rubber on our feet, knees, elbows (and nether parts), then it's OK to wear Handjammies.
by pbeckham
Tue Oct 30, 2012 3:17 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Trees Cut at Pet Wall
Replies: 20
Views: 31157

Re: Trees Cut at Pet Wall

[quote]"Curiously, everyone conveniently sidestepped one word in my thread: unnecessary."[/quote] Fascinating observation. I reviewed my reply (wherein I fess up as being indicted for having a sub par mind) to see if I was guilty of such convenient sidestepping of the word unnecessary. Apparently no...
by pbeckham
Thu Oct 11, 2012 10:16 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Trees Cut at Pet Wall
Replies: 20
Views: 31157

Re: Trees Cut at Pet Wall

"From whose sub-par mind emerged the idea to do some completely unnecessary tree clearing at the Pet Wall?" Mine for one. We thought it as necessary at the time. The forest was right up against the cliff and you climbed through branches on the first couple routes established. Back then, we were eith...
by pbeckham
Thu Sep 27, 2012 2:09 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Simul Rapping
Replies: 21
Views: 44939

Re: Simul Rapping

Of course, how obvious!
by pbeckham
Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:34 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Simul Rapping
Replies: 21
Views: 44939

Re: Simul Rapping

Yeah, I get that.
What's the connection and what's your point?
by pbeckham
Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Simul Rapping
Replies: 21
Views: 44939

Re: Simul Rapping

Some great feedback on the subject. To be clear, my intent is not to disparage the practice or malign the practitioners. (gnaraphobe, I was offering observation and am unqualified to pass judgement so give er' dude! :D ) My intention was to bring attention to the risks and encourage people to think ...
by pbeckham
Mon Sep 24, 2012 11:58 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Simul Rapping
Replies: 21
Views: 44939

Simul Rapping

I watched a team simul rap off the Pillar the other day and was left wondering why they made this choice and if they understood the risks. Not sure if they were using autolocking descent devices like Gri Gris or ATC/Reverso type rappel devices. Couldn't tell if they were running safety prusiks, it d...
by pbeckham
Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:29 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 235006

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

11d? Interesting.
by pbeckham
Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:19 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 235006

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

bk, I was climbing as well as I ever had when I sent that pitch first try. It doesn't lend itself well to a straight on approach and my aptitude for inventive back and foot technique, "Jerry Lewis" bridging and "baffling footwork" made the pitch feel easy. I struggled over whether it was 10d or 11a ...
by pbeckham
Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:38 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Is Squamish Soft?
Replies: 83
Views: 235006

Re: Is Squamish Soft?

Good question, I don't get out much and when I do I realize the older I get, the better I was. First of all what are we comparing Squamish grades to? It's the YDS system and Yosemite is the reference point, not Index, Josh, the Needles or UK. Having said that, it's hard to compare Squamish climbing ...
by pbeckham
Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:22 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: The story behind Squamish route names
Replies: 25
Views: 20341

Re: The story behind Squamish route names

Neat and Cool was indeed named for the graffiti sprayed at the base. After Dave and I climbed it the graffiti "I am Neat and Cool" seemed to sum it up nicely. Cruel Shoes was named after a short story by Steve Martin. Originally I was thinking along the lines of Yosemite's "Sailin' Shoes" or Little ...