Search found 112 matches

by t-bone
Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:38 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?
Replies: 6
Views: 10707

Re: If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?

Pretty much all the 10c pitches in the Bullethead East linkup should be downgraded to 10b or 10a.
by t-bone
Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:23 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Rapping Down to Broadway Mud Swamp
Replies: 17
Views: 11497

Re: Rapping Down to Broadway Mud Swamp

Why not just install a rap anchor at the top of Afterthought? It's about 20m south of the swamp and currently (well as of last year) had a bunch of slings around an not-so-large tree. The rap itself is 28m and deposits you in a nice, non-swampy area. Maybe Afterthought would get more traffic this wa...
by t-bone
Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:13 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Valley of Shaddai
Replies: 11
Views: 15407

Valley of Shaddai

Yesterday I thought it'd be a good idea to escape the crowds and head back to the Valley of Shaddai. I hadn't been back there in about 7 years, and judging by the state of the climbs not many others have been either. Just Blessed was basically 100 feet of thick cobwebs with a lot of that slick black...
by t-bone
Fri Aug 03, 2012 9:45 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: New Fixed Chain on Broadway
Replies: 47
Views: 59517

Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway

somebody please chop it. It makes absolutely no sense and sets a terrible precedent. What's next a chain the entire length of Bellygood?
by t-bone
Sat Jul 28, 2012 9:11 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Supernatural at the Squaw
Replies: 4
Views: 1920

Re: Supernatural at the Squaw

you can rap p1 of SuperNatural with a 70m....i've done it and it works just fine.

IMHO its the 2nd best 10a pitch in Squamish
by t-bone
Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:29 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Pineapple Peel Restoration Project
Replies: 11
Views: 7812

Re: Pineapple Peel Restoration Project

Took a quick run up this route Friday afternoon and had a blast. The first crack on the first pitch is a cool and the 3rd and 4th pitches (if you count the 20m traverse as p2) are really good too. The 3rd pitch is a bit runout (I only found one bolt) but not too bad. The crux move on the 4th pitch f...
by t-bone
Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:17 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: Draws found at Pixie Corner
Replies: 0
Views: 890

Draws found at Pixie Corner

I found about 4 draws clipped together around a tree neat the top of Trixie. Send me an email (climborski at gmail dot com) if they are yours and I'll get them back to you
by t-bone
Tue Jun 26, 2012 8:58 pm
Forum: Find A Partner
Topic: Need a partner for 5.10+/11- climbing this weekend
Replies: 0
Views: 707

Need a partner for 5.10+/11- climbing this weekend

I've been a weekend warrior in Squish for about a dozen years but all my regular partners are either out of town, injured, working, or biking this weekend (June29-Jul1). I am free Friday afternoon, Saturday, and possibly Monday and am looking for a partner to climb 10+11-cracks. Send me an email at ...
by t-bone
Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:19 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compressor
Replies: 25
Views: 17680

Re: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compre

Personally, I applaud Kruk and Kennedy for the ascent AND descent. I cannot find any argument that justifies the bolts continued existence. -Local guides losing out on income? Most of the guiding money in that region is from hikes....and there are still plenty of easier climbing routes to guide -The...
by t-bone
Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:30 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 5.10 crack testpieces
Replies: 35
Views: 44568

Re: 5.10 crack testpieces

OK, in an attempt to wish away this early season monsoon, here is my list of 'desert island' climbs....not necessarily testpieces but my personal favourites. I used the criteria of no bolts, even though this eliminated some stellar pitches like Supervalue, Thrillar on the Pillar, Jingus the Cat, Bor...
by t-bone
Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:48 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting
Replies: 13
Views: 12147

Re: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting

wow slopr you are such a hard man....leading the Beaver without a #5. no one here is suggesting adding bolts to anything so your comments about Rug Munchers are just ridiculous. All we are saying is that an honest rack recommendation for the Beaver should include a #5. Of course you don't NEED it, b...
by t-bone
Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:12 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting
Replies: 13
Views: 12147

Re: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting

I gotta disagree slopr...I think the #5 is very useful at the top....it's definitely not an easy move.
great climb though...
by t-bone
Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:58 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Wire Tap
Replies: 112
Views: 186961

Re: Wire Tap

I climbed WireCrack today via Hearsay and agree with the other posters, its a very good crack and definitely the better variation. I fear that the original finish of Wiretap may now be rendereds obselete. I found the traverse at the end of p3 to be about 10a and WireCrack to be about 5.9 (I feel its...
by t-bone
Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:29 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Habrich Approach Beta
Replies: 9
Views: 2826

Re: Habrich Approach Beta

It's a scramble from the top of LOE to the summit....no real beta - just walk up until you're on top
by t-bone
Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:21 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Gnarly Bail(s) caught on tape
Replies: 19
Views: 9521

Re: Gnarly Bail(s) caught on tape

psi4ce: the climb is 'Partners in Crime' 11a, not 'Crime of the Century' - it's located about 20m to right of the benches at the base of Penny Lane.