Search found 112 matches
- Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:38 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?
- Replies: 6
- Views: 10707
Re: If Squish is soft, what should get downgraded?
Pretty much all the 10c pitches in the Bullethead East linkup should be downgraded to 10b or 10a.
- Mon Aug 20, 2012 9:23 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Rapping Down to Broadway Mud Swamp
- Replies: 17
- Views: 11497
Re: Rapping Down to Broadway Mud Swamp
Why not just install a rap anchor at the top of Afterthought? It's about 20m south of the swamp and currently (well as of last year) had a bunch of slings around an not-so-large tree. The rap itself is 28m and deposits you in a nice, non-swampy area. Maybe Afterthought would get more traffic this wa...
- Sun Aug 05, 2012 8:13 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Valley of Shaddai
- Replies: 11
- Views: 15407
Valley of Shaddai
Yesterday I thought it'd be a good idea to escape the crowds and head back to the Valley of Shaddai. I hadn't been back there in about 7 years, and judging by the state of the climbs not many others have been either. Just Blessed was basically 100 feet of thick cobwebs with a lot of that slick black...
- Fri Aug 03, 2012 9:45 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: New Fixed Chain on Broadway
- Replies: 47
- Views: 59517
Re: New Fixed Chain on Broadway
somebody please chop it. It makes absolutely no sense and sets a terrible precedent. What's next a chain the entire length of Bellygood?
- Sat Jul 28, 2012 9:11 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Supernatural at the Squaw
- Replies: 4
- Views: 1920
Re: Supernatural at the Squaw
you can rap p1 of SuperNatural with a 70m....i've done it and it works just fine.
IMHO its the 2nd best 10a pitch in Squamish
IMHO its the 2nd best 10a pitch in Squamish
- Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:29 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Pineapple Peel Restoration Project
- Replies: 11
- Views: 7812
Re: Pineapple Peel Restoration Project
Took a quick run up this route Friday afternoon and had a blast. The first crack on the first pitch is a cool and the 3rd and 4th pitches (if you count the 20m traverse as p2) are really good too. The 3rd pitch is a bit runout (I only found one bolt) but not too bad. The crux move on the 4th pitch f...
- Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:17 pm
- Forum: Lost & Found
- Topic: Draws found at Pixie Corner
- Replies: 0
- Views: 890
Draws found at Pixie Corner
I found about 4 draws clipped together around a tree neat the top of Trixie. Send me an email (climborski at gmail dot com) if they are yours and I'll get them back to you
- Tue Jun 26, 2012 8:58 pm
- Forum: Find A Partner
- Topic: Need a partner for 5.10+/11- climbing this weekend
- Replies: 0
- Views: 707
Need a partner for 5.10+/11- climbing this weekend
I've been a weekend warrior in Squish for about a dozen years but all my regular partners are either out of town, injured, working, or biking this weekend (June29-Jul1). I am free Friday afternoon, Saturday, and possibly Monday and am looking for a partner to climb 10+11-cracks. Send me an email at ...
- Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:19 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compressor
- Replies: 25
- Views: 17680
Re: Local climber Jason Kruk makes historic ascent of compre
Personally, I applaud Kruk and Kennedy for the ascent AND descent. I cannot find any argument that justifies the bolts continued existence. -Local guides losing out on income? Most of the guiding money in that region is from hikes....and there are still plenty of easier climbing routes to guide -The...
- Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:30 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: 5.10 crack testpieces
- Replies: 35
- Views: 44568
Re: 5.10 crack testpieces
OK, in an attempt to wish away this early season monsoon, here is my list of 'desert island' climbs....not necessarily testpieces but my personal favourites. I used the criteria of no bolts, even though this eliminated some stellar pitches like Supervalue, Thrillar on the Pillar, Jingus the Cat, Bor...
- Sat Sep 17, 2011 10:48 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting
- Replies: 13
- Views: 12147
Re: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting
wow slopr you are such a hard man....leading the Beaver without a #5. no one here is suggesting adding bolts to anything so your comments about Rug Munchers are just ridiculous. All we are saying is that an honest rack recommendation for the Beaver should include a #5. Of course you don't NEED it, b...
- Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:12 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting
- Replies: 13
- Views: 12147
Re: Split Beaver 5.10b New video, nice shooting
I gotta disagree slopr...I think the #5 is very useful at the top....it's definitely not an easy move.
great climb though...
great climb though...
- Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:58 pm
- Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
- Topic: Wire Tap
- Replies: 112
- Views: 186961
Re: Wire Tap
I climbed WireCrack today via Hearsay and agree with the other posters, its a very good crack and definitely the better variation. I fear that the original finish of Wiretap may now be rendereds obselete. I found the traverse at the end of p3 to be about 10a and WireCrack to be about 5.9 (I feel its...
- Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:29 am
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Habrich Approach Beta
- Replies: 9
- Views: 2826
Re: Habrich Approach Beta
It's a scramble from the top of LOE to the summit....no real beta - just walk up until you're on top
- Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:21 pm
- Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
- Topic: Gnarly Bail(s) caught on tape
- Replies: 19
- Views: 9521
Re: Gnarly Bail(s) caught on tape
psi4ce: the climb is 'Partners in Crime' 11a, not 'Crime of the Century' - it's located about 20m to right of the benches at the base of Penny Lane.