SquamishClimbing.com

You don't need to talk to anyone, or ask for permission as long as you are only replacing old unsafe bolts. Please know what you are doing, if you don't have any experience removing and replacing bolts then consult one of the active new route developers. The community consensus supports upgrading ex...

To answer your real question, yes that was a shitty belay. Falling that far from the crux on Partners In Crime with a piece at your feet is just "Bad" Belaying, it ain't sport climbing, suck in the slack!

The topo for the two new crags at Cypress are here. http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_cl ... f=2&t=3558

New route forum. Mike and I will print a pdf version of all the climbing at Cypress , about 17-18 routes in total. A great place on these hot ,dog days of august.

Amendment: Undertaker is **, Tombstone and Gravedigger are 12A. Star quality indicated for all other routes on topo.

Cypress Falls New Routes Tombstone Tower. Take exit #4 off Hwy. 1,turn right, follow Woodgreen Drive to top. Park at Cypress Trails Park. Follow main trail past black metal gate , turn right 100 meters past gate, go east towards river. At top of river bank, head uphill for 100 meters. Just before bl...

I have been working some new routes (10) in West Vancouver this last year. Mixed gear and bolts 5.8 to 5.12 on two crags coming out of a small river canyon about 20 meters high. I found the cliffs after curiosity got the better of me and I hiked up the stream bed last summer. The area above the rive...

Yep, Third pitch was stellar, but the stem box, not the crack! Sweet stemming and solid jams. It is a bit testy getting into the stem box, but that may have been because it was wet

7 minute casual approach to Tombstone, Knucklehead is 200 meters further but across the creek. If the creek is high you can reach Knucklehead from the top, 14 minute approach. I will post the exact directions for Tombstone and Knucklehead next week after we finish a few projects and clean up the fix...

Try this link for the photo of Knuckle Head. The 11b/c actually pulls the roof on the left side!
http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i32 ... leHead.jpg

As of two weeks ago there was still water at the base of some routes, the large snow pack and constant rain has been a problem. Routes Left to Right: S.O.S (Spicy Old Spinster) 5.11d On the Prowl 24/7 5.12b Flake 5.11b Double Shot No Foam Soy Latte 5.11d/12A (red tape) Jealous Husband 5.12a/b sustai...

I can help you with " The Smell of Fat Chick" FA Randy Atkinson, play on words "really randy" Anders Bum aka Seasoned in the Sun, FA Anders Ouram. Also his classic Question of Balance on the upper Apron , first done in EB's was also known as The Birdwalk. Penny Lane may not be as obvious to the youn...

Climbed it again today 11a / 10d.

Mystery TV 11A/B. Between Real TV and Mystery. Stay right of centre over last bulge. We brushed the dirt off the neighbouring climbs, expect a bit of dust till the first rain. Have a go, let me know your opinion of the grade?
Bolts not over torqued.

The majority of people i know who put up routes don't carry torque wrenches and develop a feel for tightness, which when measured after using a six to eight inch spanner is usually around the specific manufacturer torque(as discussed on other forums). I would definitely not recommend using a ratchet...

I contacted Hilti representatives again today and verified that the torque specs supplied by the manufacturer are for concrete. No testing has ever been done by Hilti on any types of natural rock. Over tightening this bolt in concrete does not result in the bolt shearing but causes the bolt to spin ...