Search found 32 matches

by Mr.Sleazy
Fri Jun 15, 2007 12:58 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: mount haybrich
Replies: 11
Views: 4555

Habrich approach

I was just up the Shannon Road as far as the boulder blockade last weekend on my dirt bike, so have recent info. The Stawamus Indian is still gated down by the chlorine shack, right above Valleycliffe at the junction of the Stawamus Indian and Mamquam roads. No way around with a 4x4 - a quad, dirt b...
by Mr.Sleazy
Wed Jun 13, 2007 1:59 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: crap crags
Replies: 16
Views: 12792

Cool cleaning tools

Hey Jeff can you post more pics?

I have cleaned many routes but have not yet resorted to a come-along. Nice choice! I had not thought of that for stump pulling.....

Good luck stay safe.
by Mr.Sleazy
Wed Jun 06, 2007 4:44 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: crap crags
Replies: 16
Views: 12792

Europa

Just a quick note of support for this project - a 5.7 route to the rim would be an excellent choice, and will be worth the effort when 10 years from now its the most popular route on the Chief. A little inconvenience to people on neighboring routes is worth it for something like this, and the amount...
by Mr.Sleazy
Mon Oct 23, 2006 5:44 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Stawamus/Indian FSR
Replies: 2
Views: 1695

CASBC

Yes, CASBC is aware.

The more people that voice their concern, the greater chance that the District will find the money to open the road again.

Go Go Go Go!!
by Mr.Sleazy
Mon Oct 23, 2006 8:39 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Stawamus/Indian FSR
Replies: 2
Views: 1695

Stawamus/Indian FSR

Hello Squamish climbers and backcountry users: The Stawamus road that goes up behind the Chief and over to Indian Arm has been closed and gated now for a couple of years, ostensibly due to a bridge washout. The Squamish Forest District website lists this info on their page: STAWAMUS/ INDIAN RIVER Wi...
by Mr.Sleazy
Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:23 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Retro on Right Wing?
Replies: 63
Views: 31781

Bolts and scrubbing on Right Wing

I recall also getting on this route back in the mid-1990s with the intent of cleaning it up, as McLane's guide book at the time suggested it as a good candidate for a scrub. My memory could be off, but I believe there was a short steep section just above the initial 5.8 crack/slab pitches and before...
by Mr.Sleazy
Tue Sep 19, 2006 8:41 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Bishop
Replies: 8
Views: 2889

Bishop camping

I was in Bishop last May and at that time it was still OK to camp on federal land near the Buttermilk boulders; I found a really great site nearby the bouldering. I was supposed to get a fire permit (free from the BLM in town) even for a camp stove. There are a ton of dirt roads going all over the p...
by Mr.Sleazy
Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:03 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Driving time to Red Rocks?
Replies: 22
Views: 7753

Driving time

Hi Brendan:

If you are just keen on getting there and not any scenery, take the I-5 all the way to Bakersfield CA and then jog over to I-15 to Vegas. 120 - 130 kph all the way.

I recall the drive taking a total of 18-20 hours, plus stops.

Enjoy!
by Mr.Sleazy
Sun Sep 10, 2006 10:10 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunshine Breakfast & Everything under the sun.
Replies: 9
Views: 4074

Oh I forgot some people still call them "routes" when they are less than 25 m long!

:wink:
by Mr.Sleazy
Sun Sep 10, 2006 8:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunshine Breakfast & Everything under the sun.
Replies: 9
Views: 4074

Good work

Way to go, squamishmonkey, good on you to get both routes done in a day. Glad you enjoyed the climb. There is endless potential around Squamish for new routes of high quality provided you are prepared to (1) hike more than 1/2 hour; (2) do some scrubbing; and (3) will spend a day "scouting" instead ...
by Mr.Sleazy
Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:19 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunshine Breakfast & Everything under the sun.
Replies: 9
Views: 4074

Re: Sunshine Breakfast & Everything under the sun.

I am planning to climb 'Everything under the sun' (EUTS) and am wondering if it is possible to climb Sunshine Breakfast first and then walk up and north to the top of EUTS and rap in? If not...what is the best approach to EUTS. It is definitely possible to climb EUTS after Sunshine Bfast. This is a...
by Mr.Sleazy
Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:04 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Fluffy kitten wall no access - chains across the road
Replies: 3
Views: 1723

MoF #$)(*WEW(*E)

Silly MonOfFor buggers! Their website said that the Stawamus / Indian would be open summer 2006. Well hom many days do we have left in this - 12 I guess. I would not be surprised if they permanently closed this gate with access only for Hydro / pipeline and water intake allowed. The "pickup cruising...
by Mr.Sleazy
Thu Jun 15, 2006 6:24 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Route at the Solarium
Replies: 6
Views: 5856

Topo available on Quickdraw

Topo has been posted on Quickdraw (Marc Bourdon) website:

http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/FreeDownloads.htm
by Mr.Sleazy
Wed Jun 14, 2006 8:46 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Route at the Solarium
Replies: 6
Views: 5856

New Route at the Solarium

****apologies in advance to anyone who also follows Cascade Climbers; this is just a cut and paste to get the word out. I have already emailed the topo for the free topo page**** Climb: Everything Under the Sun (New route at the Solarium, Chief Backside) Date: June 10 and 11, 2006 Climbers: Brian Pe...
by Mr.Sleazy
Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:09 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Two new routes on lower Apron
Replies: 11
Views: 6992

Mobius variation

The third pitch of Frankenstein crosses over Mobius near the beginning of the pitch at a thin crack with solid gear (see topo). Mobius continues up from here, while frankenstein traverses left past two bolts.

No Mobius Variations were harmed in the making of this route.