Search found 226 matches

by tobyfk
Tue Aug 04, 2015 12:52 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13686

Re: Lowering off chains

Just to be clear, all the comments I have made above relate to sport routes at cliffs that have been properly equipped for sport climbing. For all kinds of reasons, it may be inappropriate to lower off trad routes, even at relatively user-friendly venues like the Bluffs.
by tobyfk
Sun Aug 02, 2015 11:13 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13686

Re: Lowering off chains

I'll rappel whenever possible out of respect for the person who spent the time and money to place the fixed gear. Well that's a nice sentiment, but have you actually asked the new route developers what their expectation was when they placed the fixed gear? Personally-speaking, when I invest in fixe...
by tobyfk
Sat Aug 01, 2015 10:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13686

Re: Lowering off chains

Well that's not really the topic here, but I am sure you know that.
by tobyfk
Sat Aug 01, 2015 7:33 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13686

Re: Lowering off chains

BK wrote:Ithink it should be mandatory rapping. Clean up the gene pool a bit, by the sounds of it.
Is that some kind of "sport-climbing-is-neither" type humour, Bruce? I thought that had died out everywhere except SuperTopo about 10 years ago ...
by tobyfk
Sat Aug 01, 2015 11:29 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13686

Re: Lowering off chains

If the context is strictly "sport climbing" then the proportion of routes for which there may be a rational reason to rap - like bolts creating weird rope angles over edges - in preference to lowering is really small. On the other hand, the incidence of accidents occurring because of confusion over ...
by tobyfk
Mon Jul 27, 2015 11:11 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13686

Re: Lowering off chains

Few things scare me more than climbing partners who insist on rappelling off sport climbs. It is a clear indication that either 1. the person is too inexperienced/ unambitious to have climbed anything steep and so perceives they can always strip a sport pitch from rappel and/or 2. they are the sort ...
by tobyfk
Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:43 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Rogues Routes
Replies: 11
Views: 7542

Re: New Rogues Routes

Peter wrote:New route up by Fitness World.
The Tumbler
12C (unconfirmed, might be soft, might not be)
P.Winter July '15
Is the name a reference to your trajectory after slipping off Glam Rock before clipping the first bolt? :roll:
by tobyfk
Sat Jul 18, 2015 1:07 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New perma-dry route(s), Halfway House, Rogues Gallery
Replies: 14
Views: 10350

Re: New perma-dry route(s), Halfway House, Rogues Gallery

Another addition here. Starts at the toe of the buttress down and right of the base of Sanctuary. Up past multiple overlaps until it is possible to traverse horizontally right (crux) into a rightwards-slanting groove that leads to chains. This point is about 5m left of the chains above Don't Mention...
by tobyfk
Thu Jul 16, 2015 12:02 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 35970

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

I haven't climbed this route yet but am really looking forward to giving it a go. Clearly that leaves me unqualified to comment on the specific nature of the runout climbing here but i can think of several classic cracks in Squamish that feature bold moves well above gear. Here are a few: Yorkshire...
by tobyfk
Wed Jul 15, 2015 2:38 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 35970

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

I led this today and have a few thoughts. It is a very high-quality pitch. Similar to, but better than, Rainy Day Dream Away, which is in the Squamish Select Top 100. The upper section is especially good. There is a great small ledge/ spike feature before it, where you can take some time to enjoy th...
by tobyfk
Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:07 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Current conditions in Squamish
Replies: 70
Views: 86777

Re: Current conditions in Squamish

natsdad wrote:Was there much rain there this past weekend? Is the rock wet/seeping?
Probably too late a response to be useful for you today ... : there was a reasonable amount of rain on Saturday but my impression is that, as everything was so dry before, there is zero seepage to worry about.
by tobyfk
Sat Jul 11, 2015 6:57 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: Lost: 5.10 Anasazi at Pet Wall
Replies: 0
Views: 662

Lost: 5.10 Anasazi at Pet Wall

I lost a pair of 5.10 Anasazi Whites yesterday. They were left under Pet Wall at the Pleasant Pheasant/ Blackwater area. I went back to look for them today, but they were gone.

If anyone has picked them up, I would be extremely pleased to get them back. Please PM me or post here.
by tobyfk
Wed Jul 08, 2015 7:50 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Rogues Routes
Replies: 11
Views: 7542

Re: New Rogues Routes

Pete is already aware of that link-up. He pointed me at it a month or so ago.
by tobyfk
Wed Jun 24, 2015 4:54 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: women's top at Fernhill
Replies: 0
Views: 765

women's top at Fernhill

A fairly distinctive women's top has been under Fernhill for a few days. I picked it up today. PM with an accurate description and I will find a way to return it to you.
by tobyfk
Wed Jun 24, 2015 6:34 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: squamish via ferrata
Replies: 10
Views: 6918

Re: squamish via ferrata

Jonny5 wrote:how will they stop someone from doing this unguided?
Interesting question!

I wish the term "via ferrata" weren't used for this kind of closed-access commercial thing. In europe, via ferrata are just extensions to the normal trail system, open to all.