Search found 226 matches

by tobyfk
Sun Sep 27, 2015 3:48 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Need access information
Replies: 1
Views: 1200

Re: Need access information

AFAIK the Connector stop is at the adventure centre. The campground is under the Chief (the obvious giant granite monolith) about 3 km back south along the road toward Vancouver. You might be able to persuade the bus driver to drop you off closer to the campground, for example at the Sea to Sky Gond...
by tobyfk
Tue Sep 15, 2015 3:43 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Addition to Well of Souls sector, Chek
Replies: 1
Views: 1798

Re: Addition to Well of Souls sector, Chek

tobyfk wrote:Four bolts, currently. The second is hard to clip so I may move it down or add another.
I have added a fixed draw to the second bolt. I decided that I would wait until I hear some feedback on the route, before doing anything more permanent.
by tobyfk
Tue Sep 15, 2015 9:04 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Addition to Well of Souls sector, Chek
Replies: 1
Views: 1798

Addition to Well of Souls sector, Chek

The Asp ... climbs the obvious sharp arete forming the left side of the "slot canyon" left of Marion Ravenwood. Sustained thoughtful face climbing, making frequent use of the arete edge. Four bolts, currently. The second is hard to clip so I may move it down or add another. Grade is about 11a, cert...
by tobyfk
Tue Sep 01, 2015 7:54 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 35970

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

BTW, with respect to Sunblessed, that start is 5.8 to first bolt. And the finish to Caboose is 5.9. Both a little different compared to this route (although one wouldn't want to fall on that Caboose finish) Well, considering Sunblessed and - if I understand correctly - the original pre-bolt start t...
by tobyfk
Sun Aug 30, 2015 6:16 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls
Replies: 41
Views: 35970

Re: New take on an old route at Shannon Falls

rolfr wrote:Shutting down climbers on a moderate route with one unprotected sequence
Have you actually climbed the route, Rolf?
by tobyfk
Sat Aug 22, 2015 4:18 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New perma-dry route(s), Halfway House, Rogues Gallery
Replies: 14
Views: 10349

Re: New perma-dry route(s), Halfway House, Rogues Gallery

tobyfk wrote:4a extension ... not shown ... keep going to the top through steep ground past 5 more bolts to an airy top-out. No difference in grade. The final anchors are not well positioned at the moment - I will be moving them.
Top anchors now re-located.
by tobyfk
Fri Aug 21, 2015 7:32 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New perma-dry route(s), Halfway House, Rogues Gallery
Replies: 14
Views: 10349

Re: New perma-dry route(s), Halfway House, Rogues Gallery

Another update on this wall. Five routes now: 1. Meet the New Choss 5.11a 7 bolts Straight up through overlaps, then tricky rightwards traverse into the obvious groove. 2. Same as the Old Choss 5.12b 6 bolts Direct through the big overhang into the previous route. The official beta involves heelhook...
by tobyfk
Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:59 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Rogues Routes
Replies: 11
Views: 7542

Re: New Rogues Routes

The conjuring is a decent route too but I don't think it merits the 5-star rating it got in the update. The conjuring definitely has a hard to clip second bolt that a stick clip is nice for depending on your personal ethics. I agree on this. It is an odd choice for the five stars. The rock is very ...
by tobyfk
Tue Aug 18, 2015 5:59 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mank Question
Replies: 6
Views: 2676

Re: Mank Question

tsouth wrote:
tobyfk wrote:The draw on Snowglobe is of similar age, I think.
I'd love to replace all the old fixed draws with shiny steel ones but they're costly things and I'm a student... again :cry:
Sorry, I didn't mean "why didn't you replace the others?"! A job for someone else, for sure. I might do it.
by tobyfk
Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:50 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mank Question
Replies: 6
Views: 2676

Re: Mank Question

The draw on Snowglobe is of similar age, I think.
by tobyfk
Mon Aug 17, 2015 11:44 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mank Question
Replies: 6
Views: 2676

Re: Mank Question

Got around to replacing the two draws. There are nice shiny new fixe steel draws were the old nylon ones were. It's only the two as the rest are easier to clip. I considered moving the second fixed draw up to the next bolt which I honestly find harder to clip but figured it was best to stick to whe...
by tobyfk
Thu Aug 13, 2015 6:37 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off Chains Some More?
Replies: 12
Views: 5765

Re: Lowering off Chains Some More?

Your guess about the reason for locking the other thread is basically correct. Web forums are strange beasts. One would think that after ~15-20 years in common usage, people would have given up on trolling, dick-swinging and similar behaviours, but apparently not. If anyone has an issue with the mo...
by tobyfk
Wed Aug 12, 2015 3:44 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off Chains Some More?
Replies: 12
Views: 5765

Re: Lowering off Chains Some More?

If I'm not confident in my partner's lowering competence, I'll keep a hand on the line while being lowered or rappel. I do this 100% of the time - hold the rope lightly when lowering for the first few metres, to confirm that I am still on belay - regardless of my partner's competence. It seems a go...
by tobyfk
Wed Aug 12, 2015 3:41 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off Chains Some More?
Replies: 12
Views: 5765

Re: Lowering off Chains Some More?

Thanks for the on-topic comments, Perry. Your guess about the reason for locking the other thread is basically correct. Web forums are strange beasts. One would think that after ~15-20 years in common usage, people would have given up on trolling, dick-swinging and similar behaviours, but apparently...
by tobyfk
Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:27 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Lowering off chains
Replies: 28
Views: 13686

Re: Lowering off chains

On the other hand, the incidence of accidents occurring because of confusion over rap vs lowering decisions is meaningfully high. The classic situation being that the belayer stops belaying because they expect their leader to rappel, then the leader takes a ground-fall when they try to lower. I get...