Search found 130 matches

by jefffski
Sun May 23, 2010 8:22 pm
Forum: Lost & Found
Topic: Found: Jacket at Fatty Bolger
Replies: 0
Views: 1013

Found: Jacket at Fatty Bolger

If you were with a group of ACMGs, and lost a jacket on Sunday, May 16, please pm me. I have it.
by jefffski
Wed May 19, 2010 10:07 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Road to Chek
Replies: 22
Views: 6053

a couple of well placed culverts will fix this road, as most of the damage is from water running down it.
by jefffski
Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:47 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cracks to learn on
Replies: 29
Views: 7517

Many new climbs are posted on this website. These climbs are not in either of the guidebooks. re ..in my opinion--on the seinfeld show, they had a game where you added the words "in bed" after reading a fortune cookie. much more fun than "in my opinion". Let's try it here. Maclean's guide book is mu...
by jefffski
Mon Apr 19, 2010 3:01 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Changed access for Sky Pilot and Habrich- what does it mean?
Replies: 34
Views: 13129

years ago i drove right to the base of habrich. There was a trail there that led to the base of life on earth etc. Once we missed that trail and the bushwack was not fun. We drove on a very bad spur road to a large truck turnaround. is this road now completely gone? And i don't remember any river cr...
by jefffski
Thu Apr 08, 2010 1:28 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Cracks to learn on
Replies: 29
Views: 7517

You could toprope into High Mountain Woody (5.8+) on the Upper Malamute and check out the moves and then lead it up if you feel like it. You might find a lot of great rests which will make you more comfortable and ready to try Paul's crack (5.10a) just to the left of HMW, and do the same (toprope t...
by jefffski
Thu Oct 22, 2009 12:23 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Milk Road, a blog
Replies: 50
Views: 16021

A discussion of these issues might be based on a wide ranging report, found at the link below. The report was completed in 2008 by Kevin Mclane. http://squamishaccess.ca/?p=477 The issue regarding vegetation is discussed on page 22 with photos on page 23. In his conclusion, the author recommends tha...
by jefffski
Sat Oct 03, 2009 5:48 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Where to get custom slings sewn?
Replies: 12
Views: 2569

pinner, it turns out that due to friction, the sliding x doesn't slide, or at least not much.
by jefffski
Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:35 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Where to get custom slings sewn?
Replies: 12
Views: 2569

a double length sling (240cm) works very easily and is fast and safe. simply clip the strand into each bolt with non-lockers, tie a figure eight on a bight on the end, clip in a locking biner and attach yourself to the locker using a clove hitch on your rope. Presto.
by jefffski
Thu Sep 24, 2009 4:31 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Shoe reccomendations for climbing hard slab in squamish
Replies: 14
Views: 3657

if the bolt is directly below you, the rope should be between your legs. Otherwise be very sure that the rope is on the bolt side. This will help prevent the rope from flipping you upside down.
by jefffski
Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:39 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: More Slab ?'s
Replies: 14
Views: 3575

not so much a slab pitch but traverse of the gods was amazing for the position.
by jefffski
Wed Sep 16, 2009 12:20 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Sting in the Tail-bughouse heights
Replies: 4
Views: 1972

thanks for the catch b. just to be clear, i fell on my first try getting to the 3rd bolt. not only was it a long fall, but the the rope got caught behind my leg and flipped me over. it was quite a thrill watching the ground coming up to me. I was bloodied a bit from the scrape but climbed back up. a...
by jefffski
Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:10 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Sting in the Tail-bughouse heights
Replies: 4
Views: 1972

Sting in the Tail-bughouse heights

I climbed, or tried to climb this 10c slab route on saturday. i was unable to clip the third and final bolt. i noticed that an old 1/4" bolt had been chopped and replaced with a newer bolt with a barley-type hangar. unfortunately the new bolt was placed 2 inches left of the old one. i spent 10 minut...
by jefffski
Fri Sep 11, 2009 5:25 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Genesis Wall - Murrin Park
Replies: 69
Views: 24391

baldwin?
by jefffski
Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:01 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cleaning Sun Aug 30th - Sherrif's Badge area
Replies: 12
Views: 4461

Thank you for a good start, albeit after a false one. I was the fellow calling over to you from angle's crest today. I hope my volume did not imply emotion. I think it would be wise to mark all trails in the area with yellow flagging tape too, or wait for the rain. btw, i applaud all fa's for the ef...
by jefffski
Thu Aug 27, 2009 5:27 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: diedre.. beta
Replies: 17
Views: 5281

take a few small cams for the pin scars on the second and thrid dihedral pitches.

on the last pitch, just below the top, look for the pin. clip it and add a cam to back it up.

have fun