Search found 130 matches

by jefffski
Mon Mar 26, 2012 9:50 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)
Replies: 156
Views: 53054

Re: Here we go again (Squamish Gondola proposal)

Anders has suggested an excellent alternative--from Britannia Beach to a better viewpoint. This would give all what they want: The developers make money. Tourists get amazing views. Britannia Beach welcomes more tourists. Climbers and hikers can continue to climb unfettered by views of a gondola. It...
by jefffski
Wed Aug 24, 2011 1:28 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Not a rock!
Replies: 7
Views: 1773

Re: Not a rock!

It may be wise to show your friend how to take the rope out of a device without losing the device. I've watched many people end up with the belay device in one hand and the belay biner in the other, then drop or fumble the device before they get it clipped back into the biner. I have found many bela...
by jefffski
Sun Aug 21, 2011 10:44 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Calling out the Hacks.
Replies: 25
Views: 7086

Re: Calling out the Hacks.

I've always found it interesting to compare the culture of climbing with so-called normal activities, such as tennis and golf. Those two seem so different from climbing, with their strict rules, prescribed behaviours and even dress codes. Climbing, by contrast, is anarchic. We can do what we like, o...
by jefffski
Tue Jul 12, 2011 12:52 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8
Replies: 101
Views: 36114

Re: Skywalker, 5p, 5.8

Re p2: I've asked people for their impressions of this pitch: The consensus is that it is at least a very hard 5.8. i think it is harder than flying circus (10a), Sally five fingers (8), octopus garden (8), or p1 of hairpin (8). While the moves are not hard to figure out, it is sustained, strenuous,...
by jefffski
Sat Jul 02, 2011 3:56 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Props to route developers
Replies: 5
Views: 1826

Props to route developers

Recently I have been on three new routes--calculus direct, butt face and sky walker. All were, in a word, amazing. I am equally amazed at the amount of work that went into cleaning and bolting these routes.

Thanks again guys!

jeff
by jefffski
Thu Aug 19, 2010 1:04 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Anyone ever climb Black Tusk?
Replies: 7
Views: 1919

there are two gullies. the one to the right is the easier and safer of the two.
by jefffski
Wed Aug 18, 2010 1:38 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Anyone ever climb Black Tusk?
Replies: 7
Views: 1919

it is a steep gully with some loose rock. i would not characterize it as a chimney. You may find one or two class 3 moves, the rest are class 2.
by jefffski
Thu Aug 05, 2010 5:34 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 13046

OK, that is interesting to know. So, how far is it, from a legal pov, to where action can be taken against someone for placing non-standard bolts/belay anchors or for chopping bolts? Do we want to go the American route where they have a backcountry/wilderness bolting ban? I believe the Canadian appr...
by jefffski
Thu Aug 05, 2010 4:31 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 13046

As Anders suggests, it would be worthwhile to have create a list of acceptable and not acceptable behaviours for route creation and other related activities. However, I do not see how such a list can be made to be compulsory. For instance, if I climbed a route in the compulsory closed falcon nesting...
by jefffski
Wed Aug 04, 2010 8:17 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 13046

Given his nefarious, unwarranted and unwanted activities, i think it would be a good idea to out him here. if there are liability issues, then perhaps placing some posters in around squamish saying "hey joe, we know who you are...." might help curb his activities.
by jefffski
Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:53 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 13046

how is kevin's piece in gripped related to this discussion?
by jefffski
Mon Aug 02, 2010 11:15 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 13046

Even if the climbing community reaches a consensus, as Anders mentions, and even if there are rules put in place, and even if there is, goodness forbid, a committee to approve all route creation/development, how would these rules be enforced? How would the rules/committee prevent an anonymous person...
by jefffski
Sun Aug 01, 2010 10:16 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Barley Routes
Replies: 42
Views: 13046

I also spoke with Robin about his choice of hangars (painted black) and his anchors with cheapo bolts and galvanized steel chains. For one, he said that shiny steel reflects sunlight and detracts from the natural look of the cliff face. Painted black hangers and galvanized steel do not reflect and t...
by jefffski
Fri Jul 30, 2010 11:15 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: well protected 5.10- route suggestion
Replies: 9
Views: 2307

wire tap
neat and cool
jabberwocky