Search found 86 matches

by Squamishmonkey
Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:08 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Squaw multi pitch routes...
Replies: 3
Views: 1549

Dog Wall

Brendan This should help you...I'll start with Dog Wall as Flight simulator is straight up finger crack with bolted belays. Rack...Standard squamish rack..double up from Yellow Alien upto number 1 BD, the .75 was used alot and have at least one small cam C3 or 00tcu. biggest piece need is a 3. One r...
by Squamishmonkey
Thu Jul 27, 2006 6:22 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Soloist on Diedre
Replies: 21
Views: 7904

Yes...my misunderstanding......i thought you meant in the parking lot or when ever you saw him afterwards. I now see the humour in your statement. A simple solution to alot of this is to simply not alow the soloist to pass until you feel he/she is not endangering you and your party. It is the lead p...
by Squamishmonkey
Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:12 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Soloist on Diedre
Replies: 21
Views: 7904

conflict

Brendan....I think you missed my point. Being scared or not scared of conflict is irrelevant. The point being that engaging the soloist on confrontation will not change his mind.....when was the last time someone agreed with you because you shouted at them? "Who do I think will win when the conflict...
by Squamishmonkey
Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:20 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Freeway
Replies: 2
Views: 1268

freeway

I have heard this rumour....but it was last year. The Japanese crew thought they were on a different climb (an aid climb) and were spotted on freeway nailing away. This offended a local who soloed up to the belayer and tried to communicate with them with little success. He stopped the leaders progre...
by Squamishmonkey
Mon Jul 24, 2006 3:59 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Soloist on Diedre
Replies: 21
Views: 7904

Solo

We all climb for different reasons and all have different ethics and standards. I believe all climbers should be more understanding and tolerant of others opinions and styles. Maybe the soloists actions were upsetting to you but "giving him a piece of your mind" will only lead to conflict. Your post...
by Squamishmonkey
Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:07 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Tower of Power addition
Replies: 7
Views: 5102

Baby's got a temper.

I have redpointed "Baby's got a temper".....sorry ... i thought it was open and allready completed. Nice route...any chance of a direct start...would be sweet through that first roof. 5.13a feels about right however (yet again i here the little person cry- it's reachy) it is harder if you can't keep...
by Squamishmonkey
Tue Jun 27, 2006 6:01 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Angel's Crest at the Chief
Replies: 14
Views: 6739

Angels Crest

Tips: Start Early- one rope - Headlamp The most time consuming part of the route is rope management. After pitch 3, Use 35m of the rope, coil the rest. You will need to uncoil it at the acrophobe tower: at the end of this pitch clip the anchor and have the belayer lower you down 10 m....if you run o...
by Squamishmonkey
Sat Jun 17, 2006 8:43 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: wannabe hardman
Replies: 3
Views: 1670

5.11a Gear

One of the best 5.11a gear routes in Squamish is Perspective at Nightmare rock.
by Squamishmonkey
Sun May 28, 2006 4:25 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New sport routes on way to Pet
Replies: 1
Views: 1934

On the way to Pet wall.

I've climbed both routes, I don't know the official grades or names but they were both easy. The first one you come across is about 5.10+ , the second is about 5.10- but might be a little spooky for first time leaders. I will ask around and find out more...both are worth doing on the way in as a war...
by Squamishmonkey
Tue May 23, 2006 7:59 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New route between Mickey Mantle and Betazoid (Murrin)
Replies: 6
Views: 3453

Doxycycline

The route to the left of betazoid is called Doxycyline, it is a 5.12a
(info from the climb on book)
by Squamishmonkey
Tue May 16, 2006 3:57 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Dichotomy
Replies: 28
Views: 14786

Dichotomy

I read these forums but this is my first post. Firstly, thanks to all those putting time, money, effort and thought into developing new areas. I climbed Dichotomy today and looked up the grade on line, 5.12b seems a little high....12a tops once the sequence is solved. Nice sequential face moves. Tha...