Search found 86 matches

by Squamishmonkey
Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:22 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: dry tool on cacademon
Replies: 4
Views: 2752

Re: dry tool on cacademon

Hi Calamity, A few years back I fixed up the route you mentioned plus the one to the left, replaced a few bolts, anchors, holds and installed a few ropes for winter dry tooling sessions. After using it during the winter and it seeing regular use by many I returned in the spring to clean everything a...
by Squamishmonkey
Wed May 21, 2014 7:35 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Route at Chek - Toxic Lichen Wall
Replies: 1
Views: 2936

New Route at Chek - Toxic Lichen Wall

New Route on Toxic Lichen Wall:
"Full House" 5.12a/b, 18m, 6 Bolts

Between "Mutation" and "Joe Dirt"

Thanks
Eric
by Squamishmonkey
Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:27 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Second Nature Direct -
Replies: 0
Views: 3441

Second Nature Direct -

I have added a direct start to "Second Nature" at Pet wall, 4 bolts to the left of "The Coffin/Project Grizzly" start. The bolts do not affect the traditional start of those routes. The direct is mid-5.11 to a hands free rest into "Second nature" so its does not affect the overall grade of 12d. I al...
by Squamishmonkey
Thu Apr 03, 2014 3:14 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mank Patrol
Replies: 105
Views: 127643

Re: Mank Patrol

Take "Second Nature" off the list, I retro bolted it today.
by Squamishmonkey
Sat Mar 29, 2014 1:09 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Mank Patrol
Replies: 105
Views: 127643

Re: Mank Patrol

Anchor and bolts on "Second Nature" at Pet Wall.

Thanks
Eric
by Squamishmonkey
Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:04 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs
Replies: 7
Views: 7848

Re: New Crag at Tunnel Rock - Smoke Bluffs

Hi Rolfr, I'm a little surprised by your comments. Many people have spoken to Robin about his methodology. Many of his practices are quite clearly listed in your link as bad. (Chain links on bolt heads, incorrect glue, incorrect spacing of u bolts etc) as well as general climbing etiquette including...
by Squamishmonkey
Mon Sep 30, 2013 9:47 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Replies: 12
Views: 9746

Re: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning

Hi Kris, I agree, the safety factors on the Strong tie is a multiple of 4, Hilti has reduction ratio of 0.65. and I agree with your reasons why, random quality, covering their asses etc This reduction of ratings makes finding a true comparison difficult, but the ASCA is right in that as brands chang...
by Squamishmonkey
Mon Sep 30, 2013 7:50 am
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning
Replies: 12
Views: 9746

Simpson - Strong Tie Bolts - Warning

Hi Guys, I recently ordered bolts at Triton in Squamish and specified, 3/8 by 3" SS wedge bolts but did not specify from which supplier. When I went to pick up the order they were manufactured by Simpson Strong Tie. I decided to check their strength rating before purchasing, the Triton staff told me...
by Squamishmonkey
Wed Aug 21, 2013 7:30 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: Cleaning routes by R.Barley
Replies: 2
Views: 4457

Cleaning routes by R.Barley

This is footage of a Barley 5.10 climbing route, recently cleaned and open to the public. The hold was chalky from people using it and without the hold the route becomes 5.11. The block was exactly the way I found it and directly above the belayer; I aided past and cleaned it from above with my bela...
by Squamishmonkey
Mon Aug 19, 2013 5:18 pm
Forum: New Routes / Cleaning / Trail Updates
Topic: The Lemon Smuggler - Chek
Replies: 0
Views: 3524

The Lemon Smuggler - Chek

New Route at Chek Canyon "The Lemon Smuggler"- 5.12d - Sport FA - Eric Hughes/Jamie Finlayson Fully bolted sport line between Sacrilege and Ill Communication on Toxic Lichen Wall Grade needs confirmation so please climb it and let me know. Nice 5.10 climbing into consecutive boulder problems and sta...
by Squamishmonkey
Wed Aug 14, 2013 8:58 am
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: 35-40m Simu-climbing rope wanted
Replies: 1
Views: 2312

Re: 35-40m Simu-climbing rope wanted

I have a 60m 8.5mm mammut rope that i use for simul climbing, glacier stuff etc I cut it in half this year and the other side is in great condition, no falls. I know it's a little skinnier and shorter than you want but, thought I'd offer. Or I have an old lead line you can have (loads of falls) 9.5m...
by Squamishmonkey
Sat Jul 06, 2013 3:04 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Sunset Strip horror show
Replies: 51
Views: 16769

Re: Sunset Strip horror show

Jesse, I did a quick lap of this route this morning to see what all the fuss is about. Firstly the name calling and insults are unnecessary. Secondly the technical issues you bring up.. 1) The bolt off the belay after pitch one can be clipped easily, step on the good hold, grab the two under clings,...
by Squamishmonkey
Thu Apr 04, 2013 2:30 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Top 10 Hard Cracks in Squamish
Replies: 21
Views: 7870

Re: Top 10 Hard Cracks in Squamish

There is a ton of hard cracks....start with these!!!
The North Star, Cobra, Adder, 69, Gunslinger, Zombie Roof, Teddy Bears Picnic, My little pony, Gravity Bong, Sugar Daddy (Not a crack but will make you sweat!), The Shadow, Lake of Fire etc....if you finish all these you should get free shoes!
by Squamishmonkey
Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:02 pm
Forum: Squamish Climbing Forum
Topic: Crap anchor.
Replies: 5
Views: 2442

Re: Crap anchor.

Hi Brownie,
Can you tell me which line this is, or a description to find it.

Thanks
Eric